Shopsmith Forums

If repeatability is required, make a template. Adjusting the I box to the template is easy.
You should run one joint through first. If that one is satisfactory, save it as your template.

dusty wrote:

moggymatt wrote:I have one and use it on both my router table and MK V 500. Makes it easy. My only advise to any who use it is once your happy with the spacing, do NOT adjust until after final fit of all joints. Last box I made somehow I managed to lift two different sides or something kept the sides from setting all the way down and two cuts were shallow by juuust enough. Once the setting on the incra is adjusted you'll never get that exact one back. Width of the dado or the blade height.

Are you saying that after any change in depth or width is made (say for some subsequent project) that I will not be able to go back and match pieces made with the first setup. No repeat-ability????

Like any other setup requiring more than one dimention. It's a process to get back to the exact settng, not impossible. For me, I had cut all my joints on a box one night, quick test fit and all is good. Put the I Box and shopsmith away and cleaned up before heading into the house for the night. Next night I come out and go to put things together and the fit wasn't as good as it was late the night before. Two of the cuts were too shallow. If I had caught that before break down, no problem. Just run them through again. After everything was broke down, it's not worth trying to set it up and get that exact depth of cut and width of dado.
Lesson learned. Actually, lesson forgotten and relearned!

I have one with a standard miter bar for my Powermatic PM2000 table saw. It is the same as the SS version except for the miter bar. I also bought the Forrest 1/4 and 3/8 inch box joint blade set. You can find my initial impression here.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodw ... 18234.html

Here is the link to the first box I made after I bought the jig.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 18465.html

Others have said there are cheaper ways. OK, I don't know but I have no problem with the Incra. There is a bit of a learning curve but once you understand what the different adjustments mean it is a piece of cake.

I highly recommend it.

dusty wrote:

moggymatt wrote:I have one and use it on both my router table and MK V 500. Makes it easy. My only advise to any who use it is once your happy with the spacing, do NOT adjust until after final fit of all joints. Last box I made somehow I managed to lift two different sides or something kept the sides from setting all the way down and two cuts were shallow by juuust enough. Once the setting on the incra is adjusted you'll never get that exact one back. Width of the dado or the blade height.

Are you saying that after any change in depth or width is made (say for some subsequent project) that I will not be able to go back and match pieces made with the first setup. No repeat-ability????

No, what he is saying is cut everything at the same time. There is no repeat-ability if you change the width. The width of the grooves are set by the saw blade set. The width of the pins are set by the jig. If you have the jig set for 1/4 " finger joints and don't change it then they will always fit perfectly. Depth of cut has nothing to do with the jig. It has to do with the thickness of the stock you are using.

jsburger wrote:

dusty wrote:

moggymatt wrote:I have one and use it on both my router table and MK V 500. Makes it easy. My only advise to any who use it is once your happy with the spacing, do NOT adjust until after final fit of all joints. Last box I made somehow I managed to lift two different sides or something kept the sides from setting all the way down and two cuts were shallow by juuust enough. Once the setting on the incra is adjusted you'll never get that exact one back. Width of the dado or the blade height.

Are you saying that after any change in depth or width is made (say for some subsequent project) that I will not be able to go back and match pieces made with the first setup. No repeat-ability????

No, what he is saying is cut everything at the same time. There is no repeat-ability if you change the width. The width of the grooves are set by the saw blade set. The width of the pins are set by the jig. If you have the jig set for 1/4 " finger joints and don't change it then they will always fit perfectly. Depth of cut has nothing to do with the jig. It has to do with the thickness of the stock you are using.

If that is really what is being said, then I do not want an Incra I-Box.

If I start to make a drawer, let's say, using 1/4" pins and then change to a project using anything other than 1/4", I want to be able to go back and finish the original project with properly mating 1/4" pins.

If I can't faithfully replicate those previous setups, what do I need micro-adjustability for.

http://incra.com/manuals/INCRA_IBOX_Manual_150dpi.pdf

I sure would like to hear from two or three I-Box users before I make this decision. As I stand right now, John has me thinking that it would be a waste of money to have purchased one of these and I have been right on the cusp of doing just that.

I'll try again.
Once a perfect joint is achieved in short pieces of scrap, save that joint. Make all your joints at that configuration.
Later, you want to use a different thickness. So, save that scrap joint too.
Then, when you want to make joints at a previous setting, use the previously made scrap joint as a template.
It's no big deal folks. I have 4 siizes of joints saved.

Gene Howe wrote:I'll try again.
Once a perfect joint is achieved in short pieces of scrap, save that joint. Make all your joints at that configuration.
Later, you want to use a different thickness. So, save that scrap joint too.
Then, when you want to make joints at a previous setting, use the previously made scrap joint as a template.
It's no big deal folks. I have 4 siizes of joints saved.

Thank you, Gene. That makes me feel much better.

It is getting to the point where I need to build some sort of container for all of the home made setupblocks and jigs that I am accumulating.

OK everyone, thank you (especially dusty and Gene for details).
When I did a search here, I was finding 3 and 4 year old reviews. A lot changes in 4 years so I posed the question. Gene's idea about keeping a "template" is brilliant as is Dusty's concern about repeatability. Maybe I am being too analytical about it, but I just wanted some real world opinions on the value of this product. There are a lot of "must have" products that just make companies money and don't do that much for the woodworker I am finding.

Hence I posed the question to the experts.

As usual, great feedback and in depth knowledge from everyone. Thanks!

Gene Howe wrote:I'll try again.
Once a perfect joint is achieved in short pieces of scrap, save that joint. Make all your joints at that configuration.
Later, you want to use a different thickness. So, save that scrap joint too.
Then, when you want to make joints at a previous setting, use the previously made scrap joint as a template.
It's no big deal folks. I have 4 siizes of joints saved.

I do occasional production work but I've never given that a try. When I do a separate run of drawers or boxes I just set up from scratch. I doubt anyone would notice and if they did, well by golly they got the improved version!

Gene Howe wrote:I'll try again.
Once a perfect joint is achieved in short pieces of scrap, save that joint. Make all your joints at that configuration.
Later, you want to use a different thickness. So, save that scrap joint too.
Then, when you want to make joints at a previous setting, use the previously made scrap joint as a template.
It's no big deal folks. I have 4 siizes of joints saved.

I totally agree. That is what I have done here.