Thanks rjent!BTW, nice joints ...
Do I really need the I Box??
Moderator: admin
Re: Do I really need the I Box??
Ed
Shopsmith: 2 Mark V 510 (1988,1993), bandsaw, jointer, mounted planer, belt sander, scroll saw, strip sander, lathe duplicator, conical disc sander, biscuit joiner, free standing router table with Jointech IPM-1
Other stuff: Bosch glide mitre, Ridgid 13" planer, Rikon drill press, routers, drills, and other toys
Shopsmith: 2 Mark V 510 (1988,1993), bandsaw, jointer, mounted planer, belt sander, scroll saw, strip sander, lathe duplicator, conical disc sander, biscuit joiner, free standing router table with Jointech IPM-1
Other stuff: Bosch glide mitre, Ridgid 13" planer, Rikon drill press, routers, drills, and other toys
Re: Do I really need the I Box??
There is at least one NICE thing that can be said about NOT HAVING the I box finger joint jig.
Any errors made in making finger joints without the jig can only be blamed on the operator's settings. No blame can be put onto the I-Box.
As these errors are made - then corrected - the learning curve is vastly shortened. Once the procedure to widen and lesson the pins to fit the grooves made by the saw is understood, the process becomes plainly understandable. Since the grooves width is surely made by the kerf of the saw blade used, the only variable is the distance between a side of the groove and the next groove.
Of course the width of the guide that fits the groove plays an important role here, as does the distance of that guide from the edge of the saw blade. It is best to make that guide the exact width of the saw kerf.
Once the geometry of setting up a box joint jig is learned, these joints are easily made. From here any jig, including the I Box, that can simplify the process is like topping on ice cream.
Any errors made in making finger joints without the jig can only be blamed on the operator's settings. No blame can be put onto the I-Box.
As these errors are made - then corrected - the learning curve is vastly shortened. Once the procedure to widen and lesson the pins to fit the grooves made by the saw is understood, the process becomes plainly understandable. Since the grooves width is surely made by the kerf of the saw blade used, the only variable is the distance between a side of the groove and the next groove.
Of course the width of the guide that fits the groove plays an important role here, as does the distance of that guide from the edge of the saw blade. It is best to make that guide the exact width of the saw kerf.
Once the geometry of setting up a box joint jig is learned, these joints are easily made. From here any jig, including the I Box, that can simplify the process is like topping on ice cream.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA