Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote:I would strongly recommend the current molder dado arbor since it has the keyed washer and keyed shaft.

If you can get an older version with the key/washer that is as good.

Y'all realize has has a model 10!!!!!

I don't know why. I am not sure the keyed washer adds anything to the party that a simple flat washer would in this application. After all the spindle turns in the direction that tends to tighten the nut. We have been using all manner of rotating tools for ever without keyed washers.

There was a discussion a while ago about using the Molder/Dado arbor on the MK V for saw blades. There were a lot of nay sayers. I don't know why other than SS says no. I think the only reason they say no is because in certain configurations there is interference with the table. It is not because it is dangerous to use for saw blades. After all a molder head or dado is a whole lot more spinning metal than a single saw blade.

You all are awesome! Thanks for the photos and quick replies! I'm ordering one right now.
And yes, I edited the subject line after the first question was asked about my model.

Ek1050 wrote:You all are awesome! Thanks for the photos and quick replies! I'm ordering one right now.
And yes, I edited the subject line after the first question was asked about my model.

This was only significant because Dusty prefers to avoid discussions pertaining to 10er's, Sort of an inside joke for those of us in the know.

rpd wrote:

JPG wrote:I would strongly recommend the current molder dado arbor since it has the keyed washer and keyed shaft.

If you can get an older version with the key/washer that is as good.

Y'all realize has has a model 10!!!!!

We do. The OP edited the subject line/first post to include that information after Dusty had responded.

If I had only known that!!!!

JPG wrote:

rpd wrote:

JPG wrote:I would strongly recommend the current molder dado arbor since it has the keyed washer and keyed shaft.

If you can get an older version with the key/washer that is as good.

Y'all realize has has a model 10!!!!!

We do. The OP edited the subject line/first post to include that information after Dusty had responded.

If I had only known that!!!!

The second, third, and fourth posts still show the original heading, but I only thought to look back for that because I read the original post, the first time, before there were any responses.

Subject to 'opinion', but IF the nut loosens, the blade inertia will tend to spin the nut off the shaft(or loosen it in the first place).

A POTENTIAL problem best prevented.

The keyed washer will prevent that. The torque from the blade will be applied to the keyed washer which CANNOT rotate.

JPG wrote:Subject to 'opinion', but IF the nut loosens, the blade inertia will tend to spin the nut off the shaft(or loosen it in the first place).

A POTENTIAL problem best prevented.

The keyed washer will prevent that. The torque from the blade will be applied to the keyed washer which CANNOT rotate.

All true. Maybe that is why it is on the molder/dado arbor and not arbors intended for saw blades. The molder and dado are much heavier and have more inertia.

JPG wrote:Subject to 'opinion', but IF the nut loosens, the blade inertia will tend to spin the nut off the shaft(or loosen it in the first place).

A POTENTIAL problem best prevented.

The keyed washer will prevent that. The torque from the blade will be applied to the keyed washer which CANNOT rotate.

Yep, a "potential" problem, but I've never seen
one loosen up.

There is so little "mechanical" stuff between the
motor and blade, that the spinning blade will
track with the motor.

Or, I can't see the motor putting enough
"stop" to loosen that nut. Not enough
braking force.

Of course, tighten EVERYTHING!

steve

More so a problem with the molder.

Think about a belt jam that applies the brakes suddenly.