Shopsmith Forums

Yes. I had 4 blocks the same height and placed one on each of the 4 points under bar and (with chain removed) a made them almost perfect. Works like a charm now. Thanks for all the help and patience with me ))))
Tom

Yes. I had 4 blocks the same height and placed one on each of the 4 points under bar and (with chain removed) a made them almost perfect. Works like a charm now. Thanks for all the help and patience with me ))))
Tom

You got 4 blocks accurate to 0.005"?

I would recommend using the same block at all 4 locations.

JPG wrote:You got 4 blocks accurate to 0.005"?

I would recommend using the same block at all 4 locations.

He said he used set up blocks. We don't know what he means by that but, if they are true set up blocks they should be within less than 5 thou each. If not I would not buy them.

I was a tool and die maker and we have what are called 1x2x3 in blocks. Are all within .0005 of being the same. I have two sets on english and one set is metric. They work swell by putting one under each corner. This was and easy fix once I broke it down and understood what to do and was cheaper than sending it back to factory Thanks for all the inside and feedback
Tom

I forgot your machinist background!

Just how much precision is really required for this procedure? It seems to me that setup blocks accurate to .005" or better is over kill.

Four blocks of wood cut to be equal in size (accurate to about 1/64") should do the trick.

For this procedure, Shopsmith suggested a dowel (aka precision setup block) about 2 1/2" long mounted in a piece of wood.

Good tip though. Hope I never have to do that with my planer.

Sounds like it's going to give you good results.

Thanks for the write-up on it.

Everett

dusty wrote:Just how much precision is really required for this procedure? It seems to me that setup blocks accurate to .005" or better is over kill.

Four blocks of wood cut to be equal in size (accurate to about 1/64") should do the trick.

Good tip though. Hope I never have to do that with my planer.

A 1/64" might be close enough to allow the table to move up and down smoothly. However, the ultimate goal is to have the table parallel (left to right) with the cutter head. If one side of the table is 1/64" lower than the other side the planed stock will be a 1/64" thinner on one side than the other. If that is acceptable for you then you are correct. For me, 0.003" deviation is acceptable across the width of a board. That is assuming a 12" wide board. Anything narrower will be less than that.

jsburger wrote:

dusty wrote:Just how much precision is really required for this procedure? It seems to me that setup blocks accurate to .005" or better is over kill.

Four blocks of wood cut to be equal in size (accurate to about 1/64") should do the trick.

Good tip though. Hope I never have to do that with my planer.

A 1/64" might be close enough to allow the table to move up and down smoothly. However, the ultimate goal is to have the table parallel (left to right) with the cutter head. If one side of the table is 1/64" lower than the other side the planed stock will be a 1/64" thinner on one side than the other. If that is acceptable for you then you are correct. For me, 0.003" deviation is acceptable across the width of a board. That is assuming a 12" wide board. Anything narrower will be less than that.

Well, 1/64" (.016") is pretty darn close and if everything I cut and planed and sanded was that precise I would be one proud woodworker.

Furthermore, unless I am building something really, really special, I don't mic. the pieces that come off my planer so I wouldn't know.

I wonder, how many of us check the thickness across a 12" board as it comes off their planer. Maybe I am just a crude, unrefined woodworker.