PLANER PROBLEM

[woodmeister]

Recently swapped a guy a band saw for a ss mounted planer. I tear it down and found the aluminum housing on feed motor to machine has a large crack about 3 1/2 inches long like it had been dropped and side pressure did it? Upon repairing and painting entire unit I try and crank the table up and down and it want budge. He said it worked when he tried it. I am wondering if it shifted in motor home they were hauling it in and slammed against something? The chain and gears look clean and no rust. Is there a way of checking it out trying to locate a possible bent threaded rod?? Anyone have this problem before?
Thanks,
Tom woodmeister

[everettdavis]

Nick did a sawdust session on the planer and one of the topics was the binding in the elevation rods if they were not cleaned and lubricated. It could be bound up.

I would look at the video and garner some insight. He cleaned the threads with wire brush and lubricated them. Yours are clean on the outside, but may be clogged in the internal threads.

I have never had mine bind up, but they have been prone to clog up with dust in the threads.

I added the upgraded dust chute in an attempt to improve extraction, and tried to get more CFM flowing in the dust collection.

In the recent bearings document I posted some info on the planers, as well as a link to that video by Nick.

Check it out. There are a few systems that from time to time show up on eBay that are being parted out if you need something to repair yours.

Did you get a manual? There is one for the Shopsmith Mounted and one for the Pro Planer in PDF.

I attached a Pro Planer PDF as the mechanisms are very similar in most areas, but realize yours is Mark Mounted.

Everett

15239 Pro Planer Manual.pdf

(1.7 MiB) Downloaded 3710 times

[woodmeister]

seen that video before- but is clean and rust free. will watch again as the side force may have bent a post?? Thanks for the pdf too

[everettdavis]

If you do take it apart rolling the post screws across a piece of flat glass will help identify if they are bent.

I have seen these pieces available on eBay. There was as Heads Up Bargain Available for a planer for $50 earlier today. Lots of spare parts there but not a working motor.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

Everett

[woodmeister]

I saw the post to late also but thank you for sending it to me. I removed the chain and tension adjustment and then I was lost. Is there a way to set the distance of all 4 posts the same height?? I flipped it over and used calipers to set the bottom of the table to the rod that joins the sides. I got each of them within .005 and put it back together. I worked pretty good. Put all the housing, shield, feed motor and starting switch all hooked up and it would not budge. I am wondering it I possibly go the chain to tight or is that possible? I realize I can find out if the screw drives by removing them and checking all 4 but I am thinking it will be a large task and may have parts left over? I would appreciate your advice and hate to purchase parts I may not need.
Thanks,
Tom

[everettdavis]

I am not the best source.

[everettdavis]

I haven't done mine. I was in a shop where it was being done but I wasn't there the whole time.

I know there is a write up in a few posts. I think John Burger May can help. If you search for skipped tooth and planer you may find some help on getting them set equal.

My phone is small and hard to respond with much at the moment

Everett

[JPG]

You should be setting each screw so the distance from the TOP of the table to the bottom of the tie rod(s) is equal near all 4 posts.

Then the chain needs to be reinstalled with a minimum of any screw sprockets rotating(they must move 'some' to get the teeth into the chain).

Bill Mayo used an automotive valve as a height reference. Any thing that is consistent will do.

If there is crud in the internal post threads, they may need to be completely disassembled to get em clean.

This stuff can get bound up very easily if not put together correctly. All four posts need to be in sync.

[woodmeister]

I put a set up block under the front two rods while setting on the table, I go to the other end and attempt to do the and they are about 3/4 higher. should i crank it up higher or other ones lower?? I am putting the set up block onto top of table and raise table until it barely touches on both ends of the rods. Now go to the other end of table and do the same before putting chain back on. they should be the same height on both ends of the table when finished right?

[JPG]

I put a set up block under the front two rods while setting on the table, I go to the other end and attempt to do the and they are about 3/4 higher. should i crank it up higher or other ones lower?? I am putting the set up block onto top of table and raise table until it barely touches on both ends of the rods. Now go to the other end of table and do the same before putting chain back on. they should be the same height on both ends of the table when finished right?

Just to make sure we are on the same planet.

PLANER CHAIN SYNC.jpg (199.88 KiB) Viewed 7868 times

The table top to 'rod' measurement is to "O" and "R" rods.

I do not understand "front TWO rods".

I am amazed that they would be 3/4" out of sync!!!!

P.S. As for which to raise/lower, Whatever you are using to gauge the distance will determine which post to adjust. The 'gauge' needs to be the same one used at all four locations. I would suggest adjusting one 'end'(both sides), then move to other end, then repeat until nothing changes when gauged.