Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:

algale wrote:I have used two methods. One low tech the other high(er) tech. Both rely on a good, reliable square and the high(er) tech method requires a dial indiactor.

The high(er) tech method is to put a dial indicator in the miter slot opposite the miter gauge. The indicator has to be able to reach over pretty close to the head of the miter gauge. Clamp the base of a square to the head of the miter gauge with the tip of the blade of the square against the dial indicator's tip. Then zero the indicator. Now slide the miter gauge forward. If the miter gauge head is square to the slot, there should be no deviation in the read out of the dial indicator. Adjust until there's no deviation.

I like your hi tech method but I have revised it slightly.

I have an aluminum block that was milled to very tight tolerances. A consider it perfectly square and its' measured length is 11.0". Using it as depicted in the attached photos, the dial indicator shows a difference (end to end) of .038". This translates to about 1/32".

The miter gauge had been "squared" as I stated in my first post to this thread.

20181030_040948.jpg20181030_041018.jpg20181030_041035.jpg

Dusty, my own SS miter gauge has a slightly concave face. I generally use a verified-square Starrett combination square to set the zero position -- but I always place the blade of the combination square so that it bridges all the way across the face of the miter gauge, with the head of the square against the miter bar. Then as long as the workpiece extends completely across the miter-gauge face, all is OK -- two-point contact with the miter gauge face (at the outside edges) is sufficient. Someday I'll get around to flattening that miter gauge, but for now I just deal with it.

In your photos, I see that your precision square plate only extends part way across the miter gauge face. That would definitely introduce an error on mine. Have you checked yours for flatness?

BuckeyeDennis wrote:
In your photos, I see that your precision square plate only extends part way across the miter gauge face. That would definitely introduce an error on mine. Have you checked yours for flatness?

No, I have not done that but I will (just for grins).

I have been using the Shopsmith miter gauges for so long (without incident) that I am just too trusting.

ChrisNeilan wrote:I go for the Miterset. quick, easy dead on. Not cheap, but you will love it. It is made for both the Shopsmith bar or a standard miter bar.

I have no argument. I have a Miterset (one of the very, very early models). I have just never made good use of it. I am sure that it is every bit as accurate as any of the kludge arrangements I use regularly.

beeg wrote:So nobody uses the tool kit thru the ho;es in the miter gauge?

That is a method for setting the table(miter gauge slots) to the quill(blade).