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You do NOT need to REPLACE the motor pan.

So Ron, should I have adjusted my speed dial to less than the SAW setting?

Would that have helped?

Assuming the alignment is good then the next two important things are that you have either a rip blade or a comb blade, the preference is for the rip blade and make that a thin kerf one. Second is the speed, "heavy ripping" would be "O" on the speed dial. Yes you will need to feed slower but that is how it works.

What ever path you take to repair or replace the idea is not to have this happen again if you can help it.

Ed

cjblack wrote:So Ron, should I have adjusted my speed dial to less than the SAW setting?

Would that have helped?

Possibly, The motor runs at the same speed, at the spindle more speed = less torque. So if the blade is bogging down, turning down the speed can help.

Ok you had something really fry in the motor. Before you think all is lost on the motor, the GE was notorious for having motor lead wires that got brittle and insulation broke off them.

If un-insulated cracked wires touched, it would create a dead short, fry off more insulation, stink to high heaven, and trip the breaker.

If you pull the motor out and remove the back end bell you can tell more of what happened. If it is motor leads, and not burned windings, it can be repaired perhaps by replacing the motor leads and soldering in new leads of the appropriate size/ and color where possible.

If they are bad, the power cord isn't likely too far behind. We can surely hope it is not the windings burned and shorted. Worth a look for sure if you are up to that level of repair.

Once you are inside, if it is that, a good motor repair shop might be of some assistance if you are not comfortable doing it.

See this thread for a brief discussion https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 93#p148493

I know they talk about heat shrink over the bad wires, but it is far better to replace them if the wire is bad and insulation cracking off.

Also you may find some interesting reading in https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 48#p244548

From your answers to my questions previously the 5/8" arbor and thin kerf blade is about as good as you can get for re-sawing with a table saw, and slowing the blade down, and really slowing down feed rate as suggested will help a great deal.

Really hope you can find a less cost solution to get it back in service and finish that rocker with time to spare.

Kindest Regards,

Everett