Shopsmith Forums

Entertaining thread!

Back around 2010 I was refurbing and shipping a few Headstocks. I believe I was using Scheme "F" for making tube-support wood brackets for my cardboard cartons. Never thought I'd find another soul doing something like that

- Chris

When I cleaned up my 10ER way tubes I used the tie bar to hold the outboard end.

nuhobby wrote:Entertaining thread!

Back around 2010 I was refurbing and shipping a few Headstocks. I believe I was using Scheme "F" for making tube-support wood brackets for my cardboard cartons. Never thought I'd find another soul doing something like that

- Chris

Well, strictly speaking, you still haven’t. I merely thought about doing it.

But I did use the same basic idea for butterfly inlays. It turns out that with some judicious mismatching of the guide-pin and router-bit diameters, you can use the exact same pattern to make both the male and female parts of an inlay.

https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/view ... 46#p214546

rpd wrote:When I cleaned up my 10ER way tubes I used the tie bar to hold the outboard end.

tiebar1.jpg

Hey, that’s cheating!

But then, I do have a Zyliss vise ...

Why on earth was an exact sized hole necessary? All that hole does is support the tube at the 'bottom' of the hole. I use a couple of caster 'wheels'. No need to 'capture' as the tube behaves due to the weight and fulcrum arm length.



Yes I initially had visions of tubes flying across the room ... They simply do not do that.(as long as the other end is secured)

JPG wrote:Why on earth was an exact sized hole necessary? All that hole does is support the tube at the 'bottom' of the hole. I use a couple of caster 'wheels'. No need to 'capture' as the tube behaves due to the weight and fulcrum arm length.



Yes I initially had visions of tubes flying across the room ... They simply do not do that.(as long as the other end is secured)

Yup, my castor wheels work great. A piece of plywood with cheap Harbor Freight castors screwed to it and then clamped to the aux table.

JPG wrote:Why on earth was an exact sized hole necessary? All that hole does is support the tube at the 'bottom' of the hole. I use a couple of caster 'wheels'. No need to 'capture' as the tube behaves due to the weight and fulcrum arm length.



Yes I initially had visions of tubes flying across the room ... They simply do not do that.(as long as the other end is secured)

My concern was (and is) that the tube would try to roll up the front side of an oversized hole, then slip back down, then climb again, etc. Basically a stick/slip instability that would make it jitter around a bit, and possibly loosen the chuck’s grip.

Casters have much less rolling friction, so they would have far less tendency to make the tube climb. Unless they froze up, that is. I still like the idea of having the tube fully captured, for safety’s sake. And at first blush, I thought that drilling a hole would be quicker and easier than mounting casters!

How many 'optional' methods of mounting the casters would you have considered?

algale wrote:I've got that same bit and a similar brace and used it many years ago to size some holes for the way tubes. I found that I had the best success if I clamped a sacrificial board behind the board I was boring (are you bored yet? ) so that the pilot had something to grip all way thru.

Glad you got it worked out without my addition/subtraction drilling techniques.

That’s a good tip, Al. Hopefully I can remember it the next time I use that bit!

I was trying to copy a Roy Underhill video. He drilled through from one side until the pilot broke through, and then reversed the workpiece to finish the hole. But I think your technique would work much better with these single-toothed adjustable bits.

BuckeyeDennis wrote:

algale wrote:I've got that same bit and a similar brace and used it many years ago to size some holes for the way tubes. I found that I had the best success if I clamped a sacrificial board behind the board I was boring (are you bored yet? ) so that the pilot had something to grip all way thru.

Glad you got it worked out without my addition/subtraction drilling techniques.

That’s a good tip, Al. Hopefully I can remember it the next time I use that bit!

I was trying to copy a Roy Underhill video. He drilled through from one side until the pilot broke through, and then reversed the workpiece to finish the hole. But I think your technique would work much better with these single-toothed adjustable bits.

When using a 'brace' type bit, the pilot screw needs to have something to bite into. The complete from the 'other' side does not provide sufficient material to bite into. Therefore Al's method is better.