Shopsmith Forums

DLB wrote:

br549 wrote:...Since I don't have a conical disc, I didn't think of using that, and also didn't know that post-500 fences don't have the setscrews for offsetting...

Clarification - 510s also have the off-setscrew, but 520s (and M7s) do not.

- David

A board cut at an angle will save having to re-align the fence when you are done, not always fun to do with 510. I have an angle jig now, may try that out also when I get a chance. Even if you offset the fence use an extra board up against the fence to give your fingers more room to fit between the fence and the disk.

DLB wrote:

br549 wrote:...Since I don't have a conical disc, I didn't think of using that, and also didn't know that post-500 fences don't have the setscrews for offsetting...

Clarification - 510s also have the off-setscrew, but 520s (and M7s) do not.

- David

And to add to the cornfusion, the bandsaw fence and the upgrade 500 fence have TWO of them!

Realigning the fences should be simple - back out the biasing set screw.

P.S. A wedge (very thin) between the fence base and the fence rail will also bias the fence.

On the 520 fence it is easy to just take a board, drill the holes for t-nuts then add a washer between the fence and the board on the back end when mounted. Since it is a good idea for this project to have a "L" fence you can do washer trick with that too, so it gets your fingers away from the disk and provides the off-set required.

Now the sort of bad news, it is very likely that even removing small amount might be visible in the finial project. It doesn't take much for you eye to see that the squares are not squares........ and if you don't make them all uniform then that too might show up. So do the minimum removal and hope for the best.

You could also use a router table and jig to do this but that is another story.

Ed

Thanks everyone -

Since i had already mounted the conical sanding disc, I gave that a try first.

Taking really thin passes, I was able to lower the worst offending steps I had without breaking any glue joints.

I then flattened both sides a bit more aggressively and I'm back in business !

I did create a few tear outs on the end walnut pieces by going to fast at the end of the strip..but I think those are fixable.


Fingers are pretty tired from pressing all those strips past the sanding disc in a 1 inch gap, but i still have all my fingerprints- so no harm done

b

My first suggestion would be a flush trim bit for a router table ? second would be a sanding disk with very light sand paper 220 or higher ?

bainin wrote:Since i had already mounted the conical sanding disc, I gave that a try first.

I don't yet have a conical disc but I watched the sawdust sessions on their use. I'm wondering what grit you used for this and if you thought that was a good choice for a glue joint after using it? In both of the videos I watched I think Nick mentioned using only the coarsest grit offered. Seems counter-intuitive.

I've used the offset fence with flat disc method and IIRC I went through medium and fine for final passes.

- David

A course grit will leave a rougher surface which gives the glue more bite?????

A fairly coarse grit removes material fast with minimal pressure against the disk, that's what i did, maybe that's their reasoning. Using a velcro pad allows a little more pressure. After sanding for thickness I would go over surfaces with a flap sander to finish.

I would be inclined to use LESS pressure with a velcro pad.

However for this operation(sanding to uniform dimension) I would not use a velcro pad at all.

Getting closer now.

The conical sanding disc (atleast the one I have mounted) is prety rough..I'd guess 60-80 grit.

Im surprised everyone was cordial enough not to ask how my boards ended up different thicknesses given that I said I had a planer ...

Anyways- In my excitement, I forget to plane everything prior to glueing haha.

Now I burned the cherry a bit making drip channels (not shown)...


b