Shopsmith Forums

I totally agree with Al on this. That is not a SS arbor. As Russ said all genuine SS arbors only have one set screw.

After posting I went out to look again in the box of parts and I saw three saw blade arbors, but unfortunately, they're for the larger hole. I did, however, find a 505506 dado arbor in the package which looked brand new. I thought I was set with this, but turns out it's not recommended for saw blades. Quick search shows it may be the length that's a problem for a single blade. Is that it?

timsch wrote: Thu Feb 10, 2022 6:31 pm
Regarding adding an access hole behind the nameplate, I have a hole saw set that should work fine with a little clean up after that. Has anyone run into any problems doing this, assuming they took the casing off 1st?

Just a thought, but I went for years with an old greenie that did not have the access port and when I finally had a port drilled, I realized that having to pull off the motor pan actually gives much better access than the small port. More work to drop the pan, yes, but you can get to everything more easily. Of course having the access hole doesn't mean you can't still drop the pan, so I guess what I am thinking here is that you might want to put drilling the access hole further down on the "to do" list.

timsch wrote: Thu Feb 10, 2022 7:22 pm After posting I went out to look again in the box of parts and I saw three saw blade arbors, but unfortunately, they're for the larger hole. I did, however, find a 505506 dado arbor in the package which looked brand new. I thought I was set with this, but turns out it's not recommended for saw blades. Quick search shows it may be the length that's a problem for a single blade. Is that it?

This will get a lot of negative comments but here goes.

The SS spent over half of its existence (Russ?) without a "dedicated" saw blade arbor. It used the universal arbor for saw blades. That is pretty much the exact same arbor today as it was when in was introduced in 1947. It is still a proper arbor for a saw blade. Length is not an issue. Any dedicated table saw has an arbor length long enough to accommodate a dado blade. A dado blade puts a lot more stress on an arbor than a single saw blade.

Why does SS say the universal/dado arbor is not for saw blades? Because they sell a "dedicated" arbor for saw blades and the liability lawyers are trying to protect the company from litigation in case of an accident.

It is the same thing with the riving knife they sell. They say it is for non through cuts only. Why? Because you can't use it with the upper saw guard. Again lawyeres.

IMO I would use your universal/dado arbor for sawing. At some point I would buy a dedicated saw arbor.

+1. I used a universal arbor as a 5/8" saw arbor for ~30 years until I switched to a used 520 that came with a bunch of arbors, etc. I did have a 1-1/4" dedicated saw arbor, but mostly used 5/8" blades at that time.

- David

Thanks John. Given that mine is has no lower blade guard, I later figured that the issues using the -506 wouldn't apply to my situation as it would to those with a later model. I'll keep the correct one in mind, but will wait for one to come up somewhere that's not full price >:O

I also have several 1-1/4" arbors. Are those of any use with modern blades or anything else?

Most 10" table saw blades come standard with a 5/8" hole, obviously, but some offer 1-1/4" or it can be special ordered. Shopsmith claims the larger flange on the 1-1/4" arbor works like a blade stabilizer and thus is better than a 5/8" flange but I don't know if stabilizers are necessary anymore with modern blade designs.

Or course, if you ever buy blades from Shopsmith those 1-1/4" arbors will be handy. I never thought I would because I had a full-kerf Forest WWII which was my go to blade. I even bought the Shopsmith 5/8" arbor to use with it.

But then something funny happened. I decided I wanted dedicated rip and cross-cut blades and ended up buying them (and the combo blade) and 1-1/4" arbors from Shopsmith when they went on sale. It turns out the Shopsmith thin-kerf blades are excellent, at least in my opinion. I can't remember the last time I reached for the Forest.

There are about 6 old blades, pre-carbide tip, that came with the machine. I've got a big derusting session coming up and am wondering if these blades are worth the effort to clean them up for actual use.

timsch wrote: Fri Feb 11, 2022 8:56 am There are about 6 old blades, pre-carbide tip, that came with the machine. I've got a big derusting session coming up and am wondering if these blades are worth the effort to clean them up for actual use.

IIWM I'd go with carbide even if it meant starting with box store grade. +1 on what algale said, I'm favorably impressed by the current SS blade offerings. High Speed Steel (HSS) blades generally require relatively frequent sharpening and end up being more expensive in use. If you start with one, I'd select a true combination blade over a 'general purpose' blade.

- David