New Mk5 owner - buyers remorse, sort of....

[timsch]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a 1954 SS, somewhat spur-of-the-moment off of Craigslist. It works and has most of the accessories, in decent if rusty shape. Reading up on these machines, it seems that the old greenies are still fairly desirable. I'm looking into maintenance requirements and see that lubrication is not so easy as on other later models, engine is lower powered, and the spindle has fewer bearings and associated issues with that.

I mounted a saw blade this weekend on it and it had about a blades width of runout. I couldn't tell for sure whether that was due to the spindle or the arbor. I took the blade off and tried to check how much runout the spindle itself had, but couldn't tell much since the spindle has a relatively short length.

If I plan to keep it, I'd open the head up to clean and inspect and probably add lubrication access like later models. Question is, would this be worth the effort when I see mid-60's models show up for even less than I paid for this one? What would you do, and why? I'll appreciate the feedback.

I definitely do look forward to having one of these as a good addition to my shop. I just want to make sure I put my effort into the right one.

[algale]

That's a lot of run out. Check the simple stuff: make sure the blade isn't warped and that it was properly mounted on the arbor and that the arbor was properly mounted on the spindle. Post pics.

I agree the newer models offer advantages. What would I do? If I found a bargain in good shape, I'd buy it and put the Greenie back on the market or keep it to run SPTs like the belt sander or the band saw. Depends on your needs and space.

[JPG]

Re: spindle runout/sawblade wobble. A new bearing will totally fix that(assuming the old bearing is the cause). I question if the bearing is the culprit however. I would be suspicious of the blade mounting to the arbor.

The 3/4 hp motor is quite adequate for all but sawing. Typical shop motors of that era were commonly 1/4 hp!

I would never part with a greenie - too easily made into a shorty/real power station.

[SteveMaryland]

You sure have come to the right place if you want help with Shopsmith stuff. Many knowledgeable people here!

Per your description of your 1954 Shopsmith's condition, you ought to do a headstock disassembly, cleanup and rebuild. Sounds daunting, but for safety and useability it would be my recommendation. I have rebuilt my Mark V twice over 30 years, and I would not have attempted it without watching Jacob Anderson's Shopsmith Youtube videos. He showed me how. Highly recommended, please watch them. Also this forum is loaded with searchable information and how-to if you get stuck.

You will need some table space and some tools for the rebuild, some bearings and other parts, but when you are done you will have a tool that you understand and have confidence using. Everything you will need can be obtained from Shopsmith (belts), McMaster Carr (bearings) and Harbor Freight (bearing pullers etc).

[timsch]

I pulled off the arbor and cleaned it up, along with the washer and bushing and that seemed to help a bit. Measured runout was around 0.020". When I pushed on opposite sides of the blade (which is a fairly new, low use freud 7-1/4" metal cutting carbide blade, so should be fairly flat), I could feel the slightest bit of play back in the head.

I've attached pictures of the overall unit (buckets of no significance), as well as pics of the runout measurement. Unfortunately, the 2nd runout pic is blurry.

Yes, I can tell that this forum is a very good one full of enthusiasts. Without that, I'm sure I'd not mess with it.

I don't plan on using it as my main saw. I have a Bosch 4000 for that. I do plan on using it for cutting metal for welding projects just to have something where I don't need to switch blades all of the time. Nothing too heavy, just lighter box tubing and angle.

If the drill press function is better than my cheaper Craftsman tabletop bench press, I'll use it for that, along with the lathe function, and bandsaw if I can get a reasonably priced unit, and whatever else I come up with. I'll need to get the runout fixed if the drill press will be better than what I have now, though.

[JPG]

Using that method, I would be suspicious of end play in the quill shaft rather than call that runout. Sure the blade is not flexing?

Also the arbor is not full on to the quill shaft.

[algale]

Like JPG I see the arbor standing away from the knurled knob and in the first picture I'm seeing something weird at the end of the arbor closest to the knurled knob. Looks modified.

[chapmanruss]

There is something wrong with the arbor being used. It doesn't look like an original Shopsmith Arbor and has some "funky" screw thing going on. I have said this before but may be worth repeating here. All Arbors, Spindles and Chucks plus other attachments that go on the Spindle of any Model 10 or Mark series tool has only a single set screw to attach it with only one exception, the Jointer Head made in the late 1940 through the 1950's has two set screws.

It would be best to get a correct Saw Blade Arbor for it. That would be the 5/8" Saw Blade Arbor part number 555321. When your Mark 5 was made saw blades with a 5/8" hole used the Universal 5/8" Arbor which was part number 22 031 but is now part number 505506 and mostly used for other accessories. Another thing to note is the original Mark 5 from the 1950's into the 1960's were designed and came with a 9" saw blade.

Check the Spindle to see if it turns true by using the Drill Chuck and a straight drill bit. Runout on even the single bearing Quill Assembly should be less than what you have described. Bearings can be the culprit and less likely a bent Spindle can happen.

The "A" headstock you have is not as "user friendly" when it comes to maintenance as the "B" and "C" headstocks since it does not have the access hole behind the logo plate. Some owners have added that hole and changed the logo plate to match.

As for use as a Drill Press, I believe you will find it better than your bench top one. It has a larger table and more clearance between the headstock and table. Plus, you can use it as a horizontal boring machine which is a drill press laying down.

[timsch]

Here are some more pictures showing the arbor. The original pictures had one set screw and another bolt with a wide allen head, which is what was looking strange. I thought that maybe that was what was preventing it from butting up against the knurled nut, but without set screws it went only as far on as the picture here shows.

Looking at arbor PN 555321, I can see that it definitely is not it.

Regarding adding an access hole behind the nameplate, I have a hole saw set that should work fine with a little clean up after that. Has anyone run into any problems doing this, assuming they took the casing off 1st?

I'll check runout with the drill chuck, but 1st I'll have to free it up a bit. It's mighty stiff right now. PO wasn't too big on maintenance, looks like.

[algale]

That alone could be the source or your run out. Get a genuine Shopsmith saw blade arbor, new or used.