Shopsmith Forums

Retaining clip the same as on the back end.

Much appreciated, DLB, but yes, I had already removed the spirolox style retaining ring. It's because of the casting that I chose the slide hammer. I was prying with a prybar a little on a chuck with I had installed on the shaft, but didn't want to put too much into it for fear of cracking the casting. Is there another retainer internal, or just the one on the backside?

I don't recall having any issue getting it out when I did the full teardown earlier. I am pretty thorough with lubricating surfaces like bearings when installing, so it shouldn't be too bad. I'd a little surprised it's sticking, but then it must have gotten pretty hot there when it failed, so no telling....

I could have used a slide hammer before on other jobs, so this was as much an excuse to finally justify the purchase as anything. Hopefully it'll do the job perfectly.

The only retainers are the ones on either end.

Since it got hot it may have "cooked" the lubrication you used between the bearings and Headstock casting and is now causing it to stick. Maybe some penetrating oil could "free" it up as opposed to the sliding hammer being used. If you use the sliding hammer do be very careful and protect the Drive Sleeve Assembly end being impacted to avoid damage to the opening. If you "mushroom" it from impacts the spline end of the Quill Assembly may not go in freely. If your Drive Sleeve Assembly has the plastic sleeve as shown in the second picture in my first post of the Gilmer Clutch Type Drive Sleeve remove it first. I am sure you already thought of that, but I find reminders helpful when focused on a task.

Maybe try to pull on the spindle end by attaching a coupler or some accessory. That way you can keep the quill in and that will keep the drive shaft assembly aligned with the opening.

I've attached the drill chuck and was planning on pulling on that. Perhaps I'll use another attachment, such as a saw arbor. Yes, that's a better idea. Definitely was going to pull only on something attached to the shaft. Penetrant soaking is a good idea too.

The slide hammer is to be used to pull it out, not push it out. Seems low risk to me.

The one that limits the quill travel? If so, yes, I did.

Slide hammer pulled the sleeve out very well. I was unhappy to see that neither bearing on the drive sleeve was obviously bad. Same with the quill bearing. I'll stick with the thought that at least one of the two got hot and started binding.

The drive bearings measure 2.045" OD, 0.985" ID & 0.59" Width.

25x52x15mm= 0.9843"x2.047"x0.591"

That's the one. Surprising to see metric dims on an old American (I presume) machine.