Shopsmith Forums

One blade mount detail that is missing? is to position the blades horizontally so the outer end of the blade will cut to coincide with the edge of the outfeed table.

The manual does cover that on page 3 but it is an important reminder that each of the 3 knives should extend 1/32" past the edge of the outfeed table to be set properly for rabbiting.

I have never understood that 1/32" PAST detail.

My guess is that since the base/outfeed table is a cast part and subject to some slight unevenness on the side the 1/32" is to compensate for that.

JPG wrote: Wed May 18, 2022 9:29 pm I have never understood that 1/32" PAST detail.

Since the width of cut is determined by the fence, you wouldn't want the edge of the table interfering with that.
Even on hand rabbet planes the blade is set slightly proud of the side of the plane, or the cut will taper in as it gets deeper.

I'm hoping to use the jointer to minimize the overall sanding and hand planing for my workbench top. To test this, I'm gluing up three boards at a time and trimming them down under 4" to run through the jointer separately before joining them all together for the final piece.

Any insight or advice?

rpd wrote: Sat May 21, 2022 7:17 pm

JPG wrote: Wed May 18, 2022 9:29 pm I have never understood that 1/32" PAST detail.

Since the width of cut is determined by the fence, you wouldn't want the edge of the table interfering with that.
Even on hand rabbet planes the blade is set slightly proud of the side of the plane, or the cut will taper in as it gets deeper.

A lot to consider here.

My jointer has a good casting surface on the outer edge. (so far so good)

When using the fence as a reference, the thickness(width) of the workpiece affects the width of cut.

I agree the non-machined edge of the casting is a poor reference though.

I simply find the edge helpful in maintaining control.

I've decided to continue this project after finishing my previous one:
viewtopic.php?t=31196

So I mocked up what I'd like it to look like but am bumping on the drive couplings. I need to determine the exact coupling I need between the existing motor drive shaft and the 5-in Shopsmith pulley specific to get the RPM for the jointer. Stats for the 1/2 HP motor are posted. I know I should have at least a 1.5 HP motor to run the jointer optimally, working on it. Everything is a placeholder for pulley distance, the engine will be much more secure.

A few questions:
Other than using a micrometer to get shaft diameter, how can I figure out the two sizes I need to couple?
Is there a preferred place that sells couplings?
I got the 1/2 HP motor with the SPT stand purchase and would like to use what I have unless its outright dangerous. Is it?

Any help is appreciated - apologies for the mess, Halloween boxes are all down from storage!

Scott,

The 5" pulley you have was made specifically for the Model 10 mounting of the Jointer. It has a 15/16" bore that used the motor shaft adapter (aka Drive Coupling) that came with the Jointer Mounting Kit and special Jointer Headrest. The Jointer Mounting Kit also came with a 15/16" bore 3 step pulley to go on the motor shaft adapter. I imagine you still have the motor shaft adapter and 15/16" bore 3 step pulley still on your Model 10ER. The choice is to get a smaller diameter bore 5" pulley to match the motor you use to run the Jointer or replace the Model 10ER's motor 3 step pulley with a bore to match that motor and use the motor shaft adapter on the Jointer motor. There was also a sleeve that came with the Jointer Mounting Kit to go inside the motor shaft adapter for different diameter motor shafts. The actual belt length needed can be determined once the motor and Jointer are in place. A longer belt than the current one will eliminate the need for a stack of blocks under the motor. Below is a PDF of the instructions for the Jointer Mounting Kit.
. .
You said,

I got the 1/2 HP motor with the SPT stand purchase and would like to use what I have unless its outright dangerous. Is it?

I don't know why it would be dangerous with a lower HP Motor. The Model 4E Jointer was designed to be used on the Shopsmith Model 10's which most commonly had a 1/2 HP Motor. The Mark 5 when introduced had a 3/4 HP Motor and the current Mark V, since the early 1960's, has a 1-1/8 HP Motor. I have used my Model 4E Jointer mounted on my Model 10ER with a 1/2 HP Motor with no problems. Feed rate should be based on the depth of cut. Of course, all safety procedures need to be followed as with using any tools.

In your pictures you show mounting the Jointer to the stand using a piece of wood between. My question is, are you making any provision in this setup for the wood chips created by jointing to go? A Dust Chute? When mounted on a Model 10 with the Jointer Mounting Kit the wood chips simply fall out the bottom. Messy but they have somewhere to go.

Edited to correct the size errors originally given above.

Chapmanruss: Thanks for your reply.
I am looking to use my existing 5" pulley and just get the 5/8 motor shaft adapter if possible. I see Skip sells it with an SPT pulley.

https://www.mkctools.com/10eradapters.htm

I was hoping to make a shop vacuum attachment in the side of the jointer to extract the chips (See below) but yes, a chute would accommodate the chip flurry better.
Once I get the adapter and gauge the height needed I will reposition the shelf the motor rests on. I also plan to cut 'ski tracks' where the motor is mounted to allow me to position it horizontally for tension.

One note when I was using my digital calipers to measure the bore of the 5" pulley I kept getting around 23.6 mm, which I translated to more the 15/16 mark instead of 13/16. I know user error is in there somewhere, but I'm a bit new at all this - where am I going wrong in my measuring?

I also scanned the mounting guide I have - is this a better resolution?