Shopsmith Forums

Hi,

Sorry I don't have the time to get to into this but I made a couple of drawing which might get help out in the idea's department. This is no where near all the options you have.

Take a look at figure 4-21 where the inlay is done... now picture that as your panel... or maybe something like 4-18 or any other decorative cuts you can think of for the panels... So sometimes the raised bit of the panel can be understated because you don't want to take away from the panel itself.

I've also used a sander to round the angle so it is a smooth flow... make it longer with a 5 deg cut and just blend. You can also play with different thickness of panels or as shown center a thicker panel with a back cut.

So these drawings show the panel and with blade then resulting cut and additional cuts... I'm sure you can figure it out.

[ATTACH]3430[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3431[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3432[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]3433[/ATTACH]

Ed

Loved Ed's drawings Take your choice of any of the above!!!!

I believe there are as many methods to make raised panels as there are woodworkers. I have always used the method of sawing a kerf into the face of the panel as a first step. This method does several things for me:

--The kerfs define the face of the panel and if there are matching panels to be made, they will all have the same sized, keen edged faces.
--The depth of the kerfs determine the height of (or the reveal of) the raised panel from the sloped edges.

--When sawing the slopes, the blade is set so it just barely touches the bottom of the kerf. The angle of the table is set so you get both the width of the desired slope and the desired thickness of the outside edge.

EDIT: I use the first block of Ed's illustrations, with this exception. The first cut is not made from the edge as shown, it is made from the face. ((right angles from what is shown in illustration #1)

So--- Here's the big consideration for me: Do you build the frame to fit the panel or do you make the panel to fit the frame??

I've always found it to be more controllable to first make the panels then mill the frames to fit the panel and the piece. Frames can be manipulated in several ways; slot depth, slot width, width of the frame stiles and rails. There is not that much opportunity to alter a panel.

Also, by making the panel first, you can control the width of the exposed slope of the panel.

Other opinions/suggestions are encouraged!!!!:)

reible wrote:Hi,

. . . .

So these drawings show the panel and with blade then resulting cut and additional cuts... I'm sure you can figure it out.


Ed

EXCELLENT 'drawings'! What did you use to create them? Sketchup? ???

Hello once again,

Thanks to all for your comments on my raised panel questions. Ed, the collection of raised panel profiles was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to draw them all up!

As I indicated in my last post, I have been looking at the raised panel jig shown in PTWFE Chapter 4, Figure 4-22. I think I have worked things out, but here are my thoughts for your consideration and comment (Especially if I have come to a wrong conclusion at some point).

1. The dimensions shown for the two pieces that form the “fence straddler” part of the jig are only for the Mk V 500 fence. The 510 fence is wider and taller, and the 520 fence is bigger still. (I read too much into the “EXACT WIDTH OF RIP FENCE” notation on the sketch, you will need to change the dimensions of both back pieces if the jig is not for use on a 500 model fence.)

2. Based on my measurement of a Model 500 fence, it appears that the 2-3/8” inside height of the staddler has been selected in an attempt to allow the jig to rest both on the top edge of the fence and on the table surface. The photo of the jig in use, Figure 4-23, appears to show the tall leg of the fence (with the Clamping Strip) not extending all the way down to the table?

I would think that given the choice of resting firmly on one surface or the other, I would want the jig to slide along the surface of the table rather than the top of the fence. (But I am still pondering the tenoning jig in Nick’s Sept 17th Shop Tip where he slides the jig along the top of the 520 fence.)

3, The “BACKUP STRIP” shown on the PTWFE raised panel jig is only for using the jig for tenoning. The strip extends all the way down to the table so it is likely that it is going to get cut the first time the jig is used for any purpose. (I guess it would be a good idea to make the strip removable/replaceable somehow.)

Please let me know if you have other thoughts or suggestions on this jig (or making similar jigs).

Dennis

Hi,

First day in the shop in along while!!!!!

Couple of things, one Chuck's method I think is shown somewhere in the book but I'm to tired to look it up. And as fate would have it I have an image that shows that with an "option". I was going to post it last night but it was already late so I just skipped it... but here it is tonight. See drawing below.

Second part was about panel or frame first. I almost always make a mock up of a corner and panel if it is something I haven't done before. More then once I have caught myself having a look that looked good on paper but I wasn't so happy with in real life. And I always like to know how big the assembly will be when finished... I also use some tricks I've picked up but they are not so saw related (OK if you must know they have to do with a router). Anyway I can go either way on the panel or frame issue.

[ATTACH]3439[/ATTACH]

Ed

Hi Dennis! I made the straddler fence many years ago. Made it from plywood and made it to fit my 510 fence. There is a slight space between the table and the bottom of the jig. It rides on the fence.

I did not build any clamping mechanism. Instead, I simply clamp the panel to the jig and slide the jig down the fence, sawing off the slope. Yes, I have to firmly hold the jig and the workpiece firmly to the fence.

Build one and try it out on some scrap plywood. You will see how it works. I usually have one or two plywood raised panels to use as scrap after setting up to bevel the real panels.

This is about the same jig I built way back when. I'd have to check the dimensions and other details but I'd say it is very very close. On the 500 original rip fence the top is not a good surface to ride against so the two pieces rode against the table and cleared the fence (on mine anyway). The newer fence has the t-slot so perhaps that might be better... I never tried it. I also have the 510 fence but while I had the machine as a 510 I never tried this method... now all I have is the two 520's and I have not built this for them.

To be honest I haven't thought about how I would do it.... The good news is they are super simple to make so if you have some left over plywood you can put one together and see how you like it and what you might want to change. Then make a version two with the improvements. (Version one you can but together with screws and no glue so you can try a few things.)

Speaking of change I was never to hot on the clamping board... I might opt to use some 6" Quick-Grip Clamps (Irwin) and some slots in the top of the tall vertical piece. I also never put the vertical piece "backup strip" on my jig as I never used for that purpose (I could have added later if needed.... like wise you can always remove it later). (I can sketch up the clamping idea if you want me to.)


Ed

perryobear wrote:Hello once again,

Thanks to all for your comments on my raised panel questions. Ed, the collection of raised panel profiles was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to draw them all up!

As I indicated in my last post, I have been looking at the raised panel jig shown in PTWFE Chapter 4, Figure 4-22. I think I have worked things out, but here are my thoughts for your consideration and comment (Especially if I have come to a wrong conclusion at some point).

1. The dimensions shown for the two pieces that form the “fence straddler” part of the jig are only for the Mk V 500 fence. The 510 fence is wider and taller, and the 520 fence is bigger still. (I read too much into the “EXACT WIDTH OF RIP FENCE” notation on the sketch, you will need to change the dimensions of both back pieces if the jig is not for use on a 500 model fence.)

2. Based on my measurement of a Model 500 fence, it appears that the 2-3/8” inside height of the staddler has been selected in an attempt to allow the jig to rest both on the top edge of the fence and on the table surface. The photo of the jig in use, Figure 4-23, appears to show the tall leg of the fence (with the Clamping Strip) not extending all the way down to the table?

I would think that given the choice of resting firmly on one surface or the other, I would want the jig to slide along the surface of the table rather than the top of the fence. (But I am still pondering the tenoning jig in Nick’s Sept 17th Shop Tip where he slides the jig along the top of the 520 fence.)

3, The “BACKUP STRIP” shown on the PTWFE raised panel jig is only for using the jig for tenoning. The strip extends all the way down to the table so it is likely that it is going to get cut the first time the jig is used for any purpose. (I guess it would be a good idea to make the strip removable/replaceable somehow.)

Please let me know if you have other thoughts or suggestions on this jig (or making similar jigs).

Dennis

Whoa! I didn't get to see Ed's latest pictures prior to posting my last - but--- Well Done ED!!!

If you would use the first (vertical saw) diagram of post #15, then go back to post #11 (Using only the first panel) omit the first saw cut - and replace it with a face groove, then use the rest of Ed's 1st illustrated panel as needed.
EDIT:(Well!- That's clear as mud!! Edited to insert the italicized words)

I usually only make one sloped cut. Fitting into the grooves of the frame can be accomplished by the width/depth of the groove or sanding/planing the edge of the taper. And - you may want to use some of those spacer balls.