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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:33 pm
by ldh
I for one am not particularly fond of soft setscrews although with the amount of soft aluminum in a SS I understand their use, but when it comes to good steel (SS saw arbor and the SS quill shaft) I prefer using a good hard flat bottomed setscrew with as mentioned earlier a drop of LOCTITE. I have not had a setscrew come loose nor have I had one strip out from constant trips on and off the saw. Over tightening the arbor setscrew can mar the quill shaft regardless of your using a hard or soft setscrew. Just my observation.
ldh

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:35 pm
by reible
Dusty's post is towards the end of this thread:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1161

OK, Dusty have you updated this?

Ed

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:45 pm
by dusty
reible wrote:Hi,

This was a bit tricky to find but PLEASE read this thread:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=501

Please read it ALL and never mind it starts out about router bits.... it soon changes to set screws.

I also believe Dusty has a post somewhere of a table of set screw sizes/ tip types and part numbers. Dusty do you where that is?

The newer arbors I have came with the brass tip as pictured... have gotten any in the last year or two or three????? Still the case?

Happy reading,


Ed

I don't know if this is the table to which you refer or not, Ed. I don't recall posting this. My original purpose for preparing this list was to determine how many different setscrews I had to buy to have at least one each of every setscrew used (thus the color coding).

Bill Mayo and I had exchanged some communication on this subject some time back. The info I got from Bill is included in this table.

Prices are likely to be different than listed here. Quite some time has passed since this was compiled.

Please, if anyone has additional or conflicting information to that posted here, please comment.

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:54 pm
by judaspre1982
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:58 pm
by kalynzoo
Interesting link. Like I wrote, if I take the time to check my setup, everything seems ok. As a bonus, by checking the square on the blade periodically during my cuts I maintain uniform cuts.
My next project is preparing for making a basketball game for my daughters special education class. I need to precut the parts for the class to sand, glue, paint and assemble. They will probably get to drill one hole with a brace&bit.
I'll pay attention to see if the saw loosens when I make the components for the 30 students.

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:12 pm
by beeg
ldh wrote:I use a drop of BLUE LOCTITE on the setscrew
I use graphite on my setscrews.

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:10 am
by dlbristol
Interesting thread! I have never had any issues with my set screws. 2004 version, but I have wondered about how much torque I should use. I use the long hex key and turn it until I get about 1/8 of a turn on the upper end after the set screw quits turning. I did go through the set screws and didn't find anything that bothered me, but I'm not sure what to look for either. Any thoughts on how to guage the torque. The thought of a tool comming loose is petty intimidating. I would guess that the taper would hold the blades or horizontal mounts long enough to give you a pretty loud warning, Maybe not so much for the vertical applications.