Shopsmith Forums

Well I received the part from Ed. Thank you again Ed. You saved me big time. The bearings were removed from my broken drive sleeve and installed onto the one he provided. I used an oven to heat the bearings to 220 degrees Fahrenheit and put the sleeve in the freezer and sprayed it with canned air held upside down, quickly wiped off the frosty residue and both bearings dropped onto the shaft with no binding. Didn't even have to use the hammer or socket I had prepared for the install. The rest of reassembly went smoothly. My shopsmith also got a new speed control and control sheave as well.
My foot made a cameo appearance for those of you into feet.
The setscrew for the eccentric bushing got a dab of blue loctite and was not overtightened. The bolt that clamps the casing around the eccentric bushing was very carefully torqued with the retainer plates correctly oriented after tensioning the belt. Initial tests found the quill bearing getting hot so I slackened the tension a little bit. Hopefully I found it's happy place. There isn't a lot of resistance in the drive train, but there is some. Spool-down when I turn the machine off is pretty quick with just the drill chuck attachment. Lubrication points were all oiled.
Still have to adjust the speed control which sent me into the deep dark abyss of that topic with all the charts and such. Wow it goes way deeper in depth than I will ever go. I'm going the route of adjusting the high speed stop as the manual tells me to do and measuring the belt against the outer edge of the sheaves 1/8'' to 1/16'' and calling it good. Plus there's a lathe sticker on the side of the headstock that says what rpm some of the letters are so it has to be right.

Russ, I took a picture of the straight gilmer gear w/out a clutch side by side with the clutched version showing the differences in the parts and the location of the setscrew you were mentioning before.

I don't normally do follow-ups very thoroughly but the great community of enthusiasts here made me want to do a little more. So cool that an old tool from the 1950's, parts that you can't buy anymore, is still running in 2023 thanks to all of you. Simply amazing.
I'd be curious how many years ago the gear I was looking for went out of production. All of this work will definitely be in my mind as I resume using the old guy for sure.

Thanks again to all,
Dan

The Mark 5 was already in production when it was introduced in March of 1954. It had the non-clutched Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly. The second edition of the Owner's Guide came out in July of 1954 and shows the Gilmer Drive Sleeve as a complete Assembly and not the individual parts as listed in the first edition of the Owner's Guide. The drawing in the second through the fifth editions looks the same as the Non-Clutched Drive Sleeve individual parts. It isn't until the sixth edition of the Owner's Guide which came out in October 1956 that the drawing changes to what looks like the clutched Gilmer Drive Sleeve Assembly.

According to some records in 1961 the Gilmer Drive changed to Poly V Drive (other sources say 1960). Serial numbers above 371347 are Poly V and 371347 and below are Gilmer Drive. Units with a “C” at the end of their Serial number during this time require a special Quill. Forum Member John Dalton has one of the Mark 5's with the C at the end of the serial number. His is serial number is 369904C made in March of 1961 and is still a Gilmer Drive. This was discussed on page 9 of the thread Shopsmith Mark 5 What When and Where that can be seen at the link below.

viewtopic.php?t=24963&start=80
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EDIT: Information about the Special Gilmer Drive Units with a "C" at the end of their serial number continues on page 10 with what I have found so far after purchasing one of these last Saturday.

This part was not the one shown in the picture above. It came out of either a 1953 or 1954 headstock. Not sure which but based on condition I believe it was the 1953 headstock which hadn't acquired as much rust internally.

I came upon this thread and found it to be pretty close to what I am dealing with. I have what appears from this thread to be a "clutched drive.

This is my first post, so I have tried to attach a picture.

My questions are twofold:

1. When I first tried to reassemble the drive shaft, the bearings I used to replace old ones (NTN 2N2104) seem to be too big and without using too much hammering, could not get them to go in the headstock. Is it normal for the bearings to be tight? Would other bearings work better?

2. When I removed the sleeve I noticed that the clutch had come undone, appeared to be missing the clip on the end toward the spline or interior end.
How do I get the clutch back together. I can buy a new clip, but what is the proper order for putting parts together? How do you compress the spring to get the clip on?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Phil Ross

PAROSS wrote: ↑Thu Nov 09, 2023 4:50 pm I came upon this thread and found it to be pretty close to what I am dealing with. I have what appears from this thread to be a "clutched drive.

This is my first post, so I have tried to attach a picture.

My questions are twofold:

1. When I first tried to reassemble the drive shaft, the bearings I used to replace old ones (NTN 2N2104) seem to be too big and without using too much hammering, could not get them to go in the headstock. Is it normal for the bearings to be tight? Would other bearings work better?

I don't think 2N2104 is a good reference. I found pics that show 2N2104 printed on NTN boxes for multiple bearing sizes. The generic number is 6205, I use 6205-2RS (sealed) also available as 6205-ZZ (shielded). The correct size is 25X52X15 mm. NTN has several choices of each.

2. When I removed the sleeve I noticed that the clutch had come undone, appeared to be missing the clip on the end toward the spline or interior end.
How do I get the clutch back together. I can buy a new clip, but what is the proper order for putting parts together? How do you compress the spring to get the clip on?

I've never taken mine apart. If no one answers your specific questions, I suggest trying the advanced search function for subject "gilmer clutch" and author the late "billmayo" who rebuilt numerous headstocks.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Phil Ross

Welcome to the forum. I hope this helps.

- David

MickeyD'S MODEL 10 THREAD(a very LONG ONE) contains detailed description of how he rebuilt one.
I will attempt to locate it.

BINGO! viewtopic.php?t=3178&hilit=CLUTCH

I have had one apart and reassembled several years ago. I did not document that process. The picture of the parts I have in a previous post was "borrowed" and not from the one I did. Both David and JPG recommend the thread done by Micky D restoring his Mark 5 as a resource. That would be the place to find help. There is a thread at the top of the Maintenance and Repair section titled Everything Mark 5 / V - Technical info, documentation, links. Unfortunately, the link provided for the "Gilmer clutch - Disassembly, cleaning, torque testing" no longer works as with many of the links in that thread. Doing a search, so far, I have been unable to find the original thread Micky D did and links I thought may take me to it do not work anymore.

I typed this response as JPG was able to find the link and add to his post but am still posting this because the references above that have been a great help in the past are no longer linked.