Shopsmith Forums

The link JPG posted to the mickyd thread on restoring his Mark 5 will give you some good advice. I have learned a lot reading his threads. Something to understand is a Mark 5 from the introduction in 1954 until May 1961 came with the Gilmer type Drive. Yours came with the Poly V type Drive. Mainly a difference of the upper belt and the parts it travels on. Pretty much anything you find in your Headstock that needs replacing can be replaced with current Conventional Headstock parts with only a few exceptions. Yours is a "B" Headstock while the current Headstock is the "C" version so the Power Switch, for example, is not a direct replacement.

As for getting parts, you can order directly from Shopsmith but you need to contact Customer Service to get it processed with shipping and any other fees needed. A bit better news than it just can't be done.

Something I said earlier about a 220 version Mark V was,

Shopsmith has and still actually does with the Mark 7 offer a 220 Volt version but the 50Hz is unique.

The Power Pro DVR Headstock of the Mark 7 and available as an upgrade can run on different voltages and both 60 and 50Hz. The electronics senses the power input and adjusts accordingly.

I hope the Bandsaw is ready to work with no more than a simple tune-up needed. If it doesn't have a manual with it that can be downloaded for free as a PDF under Learn then Manuals & Information. You will want the older one for Cast Iron Tables. You could even download it now and get a headstart on familiarizing yourself with it. Even though you will not be able to use it until you get the Mark V up and running, I would suggest going through it to see if any repair or replacement parts are needed. That way they could be ordered together with anything needed from Shopsmith for the Mark V.

Thanks Russ! I've been studying, reading, and watching everything like it's my job. ShopSmith don't currently ship to AU (I asked), probably busy with the big relaunch and I'm likely their only customer here. Luckily most of what I need is on eBay, the rest I can use a mail forwarding service, costs an arm and a leg but at least it's possible.

Good to know mine is the "B" Headstock, I hadn't run across that terminology. I'll keep that in mind for the switch. Speaking of, I finally got into the headstock this week and started the teardown. Found the switch is dead (a McGill 20A 1.5HP DPST, looks like a previous owner already upgraded from the original at some point). Both poles failed continuity testing in the ON position. I'll grab the one on eBay.

Previous owner had bodged the cord exit with electrical tape, and the earth/ground wire had been cut and just taped back together. The ground nut on the motor is totally seized and rounded. So I'm going to redo all the wiring properly while I'm in there: new switch, new cord run, proper cable gland for the cord exit, new spade connectors etc.

The motor itself was a surprise: a genuine factory-built A.O. Smith C48L2A15, 230V/50Hz, 1-1/8 HP, made in Tipp City, Ohio. Not a rewound US motor, properly Australian-spec from the factory.

Bandsawlooked good in photos, should be here in a month. I also have Spike from Sparkle City Guitars who might be able to hook me up with a joitner and belt sander.

I've also purcahsed era-correct books for

- Owners Manual
- Study Guide Course
- Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone

The forum is honestly an unbelievable resource.

New steps....

1. Total disassembly (in for a tonne I guess)
2. Rust Reformer on the steel housing after a clean
3. Evaporust on rusted bits like lock bolt and anything else that's seen better days
4. Review and replace bearings that are f'd
5. Buy and install a new switch
6. Cut and redo wiring
7. Reassembly
8. Cross fingers and toes

Interesting that Shopsmith said they don't currently ship to Australia since in a Q & A just last week CEO and co-owner Andrew Deutsch said they can. Here is a link to that Q & A.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIirKkYuxss

Below is a link to another Topic you may find interesting titled Shopsmith Mark 5 What When and Where here on the Community page.

viewtopic.php?t=24963

I noticed the eccentric(idler shaft) is adjusted with the slot at the 3 o'clock position. I recommend adjusting the opposite direction(towards 9 o'clock) since that will allow normal rotation tendency to create a tighter setting.(idler shaft runs clockwise).

chapmanruss wrote: Wed May 13, 2026 2:26 pm Interesting that Shopsmith said they don't currently ship to Australia since in a Q & A just last week CEO and co-owner Andrew Deutsch said they can. Here is a link to that Q & A.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIirKkYuxss

Below is a link to another Topic you may find interesting titled Shopsmith Mark 5 What When and Where here on the Community page.

viewtopic.php?t=24963

Great history article thanks! I have actually spoken to Andrew privately (nice guy). I suspect if you buy full units or headstocks they will ship it anywhere. But I wanted a power coupler + hub set, so I'll just organize mail forwarding for that.

JPG wrote: Wed May 13, 2026 3:28 pm I noticed the eccentric(idler shaft) is adjusted with the slot at the 3 o'clock position. I recommend adjusting the opposite direction(towards 9 o'clock) since that will allow normal rotation tendency to create a tighter setting.(idler shaft runs clockwise).

Oh thankyou for the tip! I had not noticed. Will add it to my list. I've also been advised to

- replace the motor starting capacitor
- make sure the interior of the motor is cleaned out (dust, sawdust, etc)
- clean the contacts on the centrifugal switch

So I think my tear down just got a bit more complex. I wonder if there is anything else you suggest? I will follow Jacobs videos, and hope I dont bungle anything.

I just spent the last hour trying to remove the ground nut/screw. It was completley sized, and now I realize WHY the previous owner had spliced the ground wire to the power cord and wrapped it with electrical tape - he couldn't get it off either! I tried penetrating oil, heat cycles, soldering iron, heat gun, various buts, spanners, pliers, everything. In the end I had to simply drill it out completely. So I'll have to retap. I almost gave up and was going to use one of the leg ribs as a new location, but I really wanted to keep it less of a frankenstein fix.

In the picuture, I had already removed the ground connector, and that star washer was spinning freely, but it was simply impossible (for me) to remove.

Another option to re-tapping the hole would be to use a Bolt, Washer and Nut.

Oh nice that's a much simpler idea!

So I have finally finished my headstock teardown. I'm hoping to get some extra eyes and opinions on a few interesting bits and pieces I came across.

1. The speed control seems to work just fine, with some proper derust, TLC, and careful operation, I hope to get many more years out of it.
2. The previous owner either lost, or had to drill out the set screw that retain sthe speed control, because it's been replaced with a flat head screw. I will see if I can fix this. Again, not ideal, but I think it's totally find to use as is.
3. Back of Speed dial seems ok luckily, not too chewed up.
4. I wonder why the essentric was at 3pm. I noticed it's a bit chewed up, seems to have been moved around alot. I also note the screw that should retain it was missing entirely. I will get a new one and add a washer as I've seen others do.
5. Quadrant is not as bad has I feared. Looks textboox almost, I'm hoping I can get a lot more use out of it once I get it all tuned up. I guess I should remove the roll pin and inspect all the teeth properly?
6. Jacob Anderson talks about this being "burnt" or having "indentations". To my eye it's fine, but I don't know enough here to know if I need an urgent replacement, or use it for a whlle longer.
7. The water pump bearing feels much better than I thought. There is some rust on the outside, but grease wise it feels good.
8. Can't remember the name of this, the Poly V shaft thingy. The rust I can fix. But there are 2 retaining clilps, and the actual Poly V bit is much closer to one clip than another. I dobut it matters, and I tried to move it and couldn't (by hand). Asusming it's fine.
Lastly, bearing puller worked a real treat!

Below is an example of one version of the Headstock casting around the Idler Shaft Assembly. The blue arrow is where the screw and washer are missing on yours. This is to keep the assembly from pushing outward. The green arrow points to a screw that is for keeping the Eccentric from retracting into the casting. Not all Headstocks have both or either screw. The red arrow is pointing to the split on the narrow side of the Eccentric found on some Eccentrics. Eccentrics without the split have a set screw (not seen) that holds the Eccentric on the Bearing. The black arrow is the cap screw, washer and nut that holds the assembly in place and keeps it from turning once the Eccentric is set for belt tension. Do NOT over tighten this as it can cause the casting to crack.
_ .
The teeth on the Speed Control Assembly part known as the Porkchop are worn but with care could still be used. Unless the Porkchop is loose I would not recommend removing the Roll Pin at this time. If you do need to remove the Roll Pin, I recommend replacing it with the fix from Bill Mayo found in the Topic "Everything Mark 5/V - Technical Info, Documentation and Links." There is a lot of good information on restoring and repairing Mark V's there.

It would likely be easier having a set screw to hold the Speed Control Handle in place as opposed to the screw someone used. Just find the correct threaded set screw to replace it.

You're a legend Russ thankyou for all that, I'm going to read that whole thread now.

That's my plan - set screw replacement, cleanup speed control and use it as is until it's done, pickup a new one on eBay if I see a good price one day, and add the essentric screw+washer back.

By the way, I've now got all the parts for grounding, your idea was much better than what was there. Sadly it's metric, but hopefully I'll never have to change it again, might even use some blue thread lock.