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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:29 pm
by enyoc
mbcabinetmaker wrote:I need them for setting the depth of my accessories on my new SPT benches to keep the tubes above the drawers.
Sorry to go off topic, but how thick of a surface do the accessories penetrate? I.e. if it's 3/4" thick ply I'd think they'd tend to want to lean. I'm curious as to what you think is enough supporting material to prevent this. Can you take a pic of, for example, the bandsaw in and out of the bench?

Thanks!

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:29 am
by mbcabinetmaker
affyx

I have them in 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood using 1 1/4 inch holes. You have to be dead on with your drilling for this to work but it works well. I will post some pictures in the next day or so.

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:22 am
by enyoc
mbcabinetmaker wrote:I have them in 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood using 1 1/4 inch holes. You have to be dead on with your drilling for this to work but it works well. I will post some pictures in the next day or so.
Thanks Mark!

Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:54 am
by mckenziedt
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:31 am
by mbcabinetmaker
Affyx and other interested parties, this is my attempt at describing how I drilled the holes in my SPT storage benches. As previously stated they are 1 1/4 inchg holes. SPT holes need to be 7 inches on center, Mark 5 main tables 12 inches on center and 510/520 main tables 15 1/2 inches on center.



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This is showing the band saw in place and then removed. Look closely and you can still see my lay out line. Also notice that I have routed a small round over at the top of the holes.









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This system requires very accurate measurements. I draw the lay out line and then pull my tape and lay out both holes at the same time. Here I mark 7 inches and 14 inches with an awl.










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On smaller pieces you can drill on the SS. My pieces required drilling after assembly and I used this drill guide from Woodcraft. The holes would be very hard to keep straight without some type of guide. I have not had a problem with fit but if you get one to tight you can always ream the hole out with a 1 inch sanding drum in a drill. I recommend a sharp forstner bit and I use Freud Precision Shear Forstner Bits. http://www.freud-tools.com/frprshfobi.html

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:37 am
by mbcabinetmaker
The jointer will not work with this system if it is fitted with dust collection. I handled it with the SS SPT base.



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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 11:45 am
by enyoc
'tis a thing of beauty! thanks for the posting!

Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2009 1:09 pm
by Ed in Tampa
Mark
I use three plies of 3/4" and I also rasp out the holes so the SPT concentric support tubes fit. My SPT like my Band Saw sits down on my holder so the bottom casting is fully supportted. Probably over kill but I like to spead out the weight of the machine on to the whole casting for storage.