Shopsmith Forums

Dusty,
Thanks for the photos. I use the SS cross-cut sled, but have been wanting more functionality. I like your design. Could you elaborate a bit on your add-ons? I suspect I know what you are doing, but could benefit from hearing you describe it. Your fence looks like a SS fence attached.

Thanks.

navycop wrote:I use one I made.
Dusty, I really like that zero clearance insert. Did you buy or make it?

The ZCI is made from 1/4" hard board. I used a Shopsmith ZCI for the pattern. If you are going to make any, make a batch. The process is too time consuming to do just one.

wdelliott wrote:Dusty,
Thanks for the photos. I use the SS cross-cut sled, but have been wanting more functionality. I like your design. Could you elaborate a bit on your add-ons? I suspect I know what you are doing, but could benefit from hearing you describe it. Your fence looks like a SS fence attached.

Thanks.

The addons are, as you detected, Shopsmith parts. I used the extruded aluminum from 510 rip fence and a band saw fence. They are simply drilled for bolts and mounted to the Shopsmith Sliding Cross Cut Table (555535).

I also modified the Auxiliary Crosscut Sliding Table. I moved it to the right so as to eliminate the gap between it and the sliding cross cut table. This requires moving the plastic miter bar. I then cut a kerf in the Auxiliary Table making a ZCI. The kerf functions as the cut line as it very accurately identifies the right side of the blade.

I've thought about enlarging the size of the auxiliary table but have not gotten around to it. I would extend it to the left about 12" and to the outfeed side by at least that far.

The added feature is the T-Track on the rail. I don't know what I did without it. Oh yeah - and some added weight.

Well Dusty,
I don't have a sled I use my miter guage with the 24" extruded aluminum extention from shopsmith. It works fine for what I do. It also has a t-slot stop that is very useful. I just make sure I have my tables waxed real good and the wood seems to slide fine. Just me, I wanna make one one of these days.

Dusty
Are you putting the two fences back to back to get the length? I did not think of using the bandsaw fence since it seemed smaller than the other fence, but in your photo, the fences seem identical.

Nick had used a wooden fence in one of his Sawdust Session with a slot added to the top for the t-track, but the aluminum fences seem to work well and the t-track slot is ready to go.

What is your technique for bending the aluminum? I have noticed several who frequently use aluminum for jigs. I have not moved into that direction, yet, but would be interested in the cutting, smoothing, bending of it.

wdelliott wrote:Dusty
Are you putting the two fences back to back to get the length? I did not think of using the bandsaw fence since it seemed smaller than the other fence, but in your photo, the fences seem identical.

Nick had used a wooden fence in one of his Sawdust Session with a slot added to the top for the t-track, but the aluminum fences seem to work well and the t-track slot is ready to go.

What is your technique for bending the aluminum? I have noticed several who frequently use aluminum for jigs. I have not moved into that direction, yet, but would be interested in the cutting, smoothing, bending of it.

I have not bent any aluminum in these projects. I use aluminum angle that can be purchased at the big box stores.

Aluminum is quite easy to work with. I am told it can be cut on the table saw with a carbide blade but I have not done that (yet). I have a blade for the band saw that I dedicated to cutting aluminum and I use that. I smooth the edges with the belt sander, smooth flat file and emery cloth.

Be aware that using these fences you do loose about an inch and a half of cross cut capacity.

If that is an issue, you could very easily resolve that by building from scratch.

PS 10/17/09, Thought these might add some clarity.

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dusty wrote:I have not bent any aluminum in these projects. I use aluminum angle that can be purchased at the big box stores.

Aluminum is quite easy to work with. I am told it can be cut on the table saw with a carbide blade but I have not done that (yet). I have a blade for the blade saw that I dedicated to cutting aluminum and I use that. I smooth the edges with the belt sander, smooth flat file and emery cloth.

Be aware that using these fences you do loose about an inch and a half of cross cut capacity...

I believe that Dusty means "the band saw".

Dusty,
Thanks for the additional photos. I've got it.
I like this solution instead of the wooden fence from Nick.

wdelliot,

If you are modifying a Shopsmith cross cut sled and you ever use it for miter cuts, think it through reall carefully. If you mount it too close to the blade, it may interfer with the cut line.

I don't move mine for miter cuts. The fence stays at 90 degrees all the time.

I wish that I had mounted my fence right on the kerf so that the end of the fence was 0.0" from the blade (almost).

If I had it to do over again, I would use two 510 fences instead.

Hi,

Thought I would mention that I too had gone the route of using my 510 rip fence as an upgrade to the shopsmith sled. I have since removed it as it was in my opinion to heavy. And to be honest I don't use the shopsmith version much anymore.

I have both the appalachian sled and the incra miter express as well as some home made models. I personally like the appalachian sled more and more and use it on most projects followed by the incra for angle cuts. The shopsmith is very primitive in its approach to setting angle cuts and I have never liked it for anything but simple straight cuts.

If anyone is interested I have done reviews on the two sleds I've mentioned and they should be able to be found using the search function.

Ed