Nick's knife jig

tdubnik · Post by **tdubnik** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:34 pm

hfmann wrote:I've been eyeing this jig for several weeks now. With the sawdust session no longer available, I can't figure out how it works. From the drawings it looks like the dial indicator measures to the top of the metal "outriggers" and not at the top of the blades. So obviously I'm missing something. How do you use this thing?

Hal

The metal "outriggers" pivot up and down independently. I would think that to use it you would set it on your outfeed table and with the outriggers resting flat on the table zero your indicators. Now move the jig so the outriggers hang out over the blade. To set your blades you would adjust until both sides measured "0" (actually I like +.001 - .002) at top dead center.

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 3:39 pm

hfmann wrote:I've been eyeing this jig for several weeks now. With the sawdust session no longer available, I can't figure out how it works. From the drawings it looks like the dial indicator measures to the top of the metal "outriggers" and not at the top of the blades. So obviously I'm missing something. How do you use this thing?

And the mod that adds a wooden shelf and bolt on top of the magnetic base - that seems like a very good idea. But surely the bolt doesn't go into the magnetic base, does it? What exactly does that bolt do and how is it built into the jig?

Thanks for revisiting this age old subject all.

Hal

I see the jointer knife setting jig I built (with a little modification) from Nick's plans is of interest again. The bolt going into the top of the on/off magnet is just to hold the magnet in place. I set them by Bill Mayo's method for years, but when I saw Nick's plans I decided to build it and I have found it useful.
Easy to build and use. Zero on the out feed table and move jig arms over top dead center of knife and carefully adjust each end of knife to .001 or .002 above out feed table. I will be happy to try and answer any questions or post more pics if needed.
ldh

hfmann · Post by **hfmann** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 6:15 pm

Thanks guys.

On your modification ldh, I don't understand how the bolt is attached to the magnet? Would you explain that further?

Also, your bottom view seems different than the diagrams. The diagram shows one screw attaching the metal "outriggers" while your picture shows a couple of bolts and another small rod in a small grove underneath the base. Would you mind explaining what those are and what they do?

Thanks a lot. Looks like a really good jig and I'm anxious to make one.

Hal

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 8:58 pm

hfmann wrote:Thanks guys.

On your modification ldh, I don't understand how the bolt is attached to the magnet? Would you explain that further?

Also, your bottom view seems different than the diagrams. The diagram shows one screw attaching the metal "outriggers" while your picture shows a couple of bolts and another small rod in a small grove underneath the base. Would you mind explaining what those are and what they do?

Thanks a lot. Looks like a really good jig and I'm anxious to make one.

Hal

The on/off magnet case comes threaded on top for a post when used in a dial indicator setup. I removed the post and used a bolt to secure the magnet case to my jig. The bolt at the Back serves as a pinch clamp to remove any additional unwanted movement of the magnet case.

The outriggers pivot on one bolt (all thread) and the rod that you see on the bottom is just a stop rod. Without it the outriggers will swing downward and make a nuisance of them selves. The stop rod seats up into the outriggers slightly to allow the outriggers to drop just below the base.

The bolts and stop rod are seated in grooves for a bit more control of depth.
The groove is plugged with some scrap that I had. I used some epoxy to glue the plugs in place. I used nylock nuts to maintain the initial adjustment of the jig.

Hope this helps and as said earlier I will be happy to submit more photos if needed.

ldh

hfmann · Post by **hfmann** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:23 am

That's just the info I needed ldh. Very good explanation.

And duh... on the bolt into the magnetic base. Now that I'm looking at mine, I see how smart that was. Do you happen to know what thread you found to work on your magnetic base? I've had a devil of a time finding parts for some of my Chinese made items like the magnetic base indicator holders.

Hope to get a chance this weekend to start constructing this.

Very nice job ldh.

Thanks,
Hal

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 12:13 pm

hfmann wrote:That's just the info I needed ldh. Very good explanation.

And duh... on the bolt into the magnetic base. Now that I'm looking at mine, I see how smart that was. Do you happen to know what thread you found to work on your magnetic base? I've had a devil of a time finding parts for some of my Chinese made items like the magnetic base indicator holders.

Hope to get a chance this weekend to start constructing this.

Very nice job ldh.

Thanks,
Hal

Hal,
Don't remember offhand what the thread was, but most are metric so just take your on/off magnet post to your local bolt shop or hardware store and they can set you up with the right bolt. A short piece of all thread with a washer and nut might work better than a bolt. Do post some pics when you finish. I knocked out a little box to put mine in.

ldh

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hfmann · Post by **hfmann** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 1:23 pm

Wow. Nice "knock out" box. That'd take me 2 weeks to do!

I did take it to the hardware store. He quickly found a bolt to match the nut. He said it was 8mm.

I noticed Nick's diagram showed square metal tubing for the "outriggers", but he called it "bar stock". Your's looks like solid bar. Any comments about hollow versus solid?

For the body, I'm planning on using 3/4" MDF. Do you think that material is fine for this jig?

And ok - I'll post pictures. But it may take a while.

Thanks again,
Hal

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 2:00 pm

hfmann wrote:Wow. Nice "knock out" box. That'd take me 2 weeks to do!

I did take it to the hardware store. He quickly found a bolt to match the nut. He said it was 8mm.

I noticed Nick's diagram showed square metal tubing for the "outriggers", but he called it "bar stock". Your's looks like solid bar. Any comments about hollow versus solid?

For the body, I'm planning on using 3/4" MDF. Do you think that material is fine for this jig?

And ok - I'll post pictures. But it may take a while.

Thanks again,
Hal

Hal,
I like BB ply for most of my jigs, but with any jig it is just an experiment to see if what works best for you. I just used key stock as that is what I had on hand. If you can get sq. tubing in the size you need it should work fine.
ldh

hfmann · Post by **hfmann** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:44 pm

Thanks ldh. I cut the mdf pieces to size tonight. Also managed to cut square metal tubing cut to 5 " pieces.

Hal

hfmann · Post by **hfmann** » Sun Dec 12, 2010 3:11 pm

Ok....working on this jig today. I've got the hold drilled for the 1/4" hex head bolt that will mount the dial indicators. I've got the base cut for the magnet. I'm ready to drill holes in the 1/2 " sq tubing, but don't know what size to drill for the #8 wood screws. I don't have a huge asssortment of drill bit sizes available.

Are the metal tubes meant to freely rotate up and down? If so, and I drill the hole too big, won't the metal tubes have too much play to get accurate and consistent measurements on the dial indicator? If the #8 screw fits too tight, the metal tubes won't be free enough to rotate when adjusting the screws on the jointer blades.

What is just right? How loose should the metal tubes be?

Thanks.
Hal