Shopsmith Forums

it would depend on what or how you would use them
if you were to frame in a cabinet and use the osb for the sides and frame in the doors and use some 3/4 plywood for shelves ( or other wood ) and counter top wouldnt be a bad idea

I built a TV stand for my son's room and used OSB for sheeting. It has an internal frame of pine 2x4 and a Formica type laminate top. The front is open and it has a shelf for his Xbox. The shelf is OSB as is the sides and back. It's ugly as all heck (didn't even paint it - it's probably one of the ugliest things I've ever built) but has held up good in that use. I can't recall if I used 1/2" or 3/4" OSB. It was just some scrap I had left over.

I have used OSB for roof sheathing but I wasn’t happy with it at all. It rots very easily if water gets in and isn’t nearly as puncture proof as ply. I also built a cabinet for my band saw with it (2x4 frame, OSB panels) but I wouldn’t recommend it. The design by Reible would work from a structural standpoint, but my main objection is the finish. I varnished my cabinet and the OSB soaked it up like a sponge. I found it was the same for paint, and the rough finish holds airborne sawdust easily. I’d use ply if this was my project. The cost isn’t that much more but the frustration level is ‘way less.

My two cents worth, a nickle with inflation.

Just remembered that OSB is used for rigid floor joists, called Enggineered I-beams. OSB is used as the center piece that is placed between two 2X4s (usually finger jointed for length) with grooves to hold the OSB. I'm not at all sure about the span of an 8" OSB joist, but from what I've seen a guess is 16 ft.

This from an internet site http://www.homeadditionplus.com/framing-info/Engineered-Wood-I-Beams-vs-Sawn-Lumber.htm

"Engineered I-beams were first introduced in the late 1960s and were used mainly for high-end home. However, today up to half the homes built in the United States now use engineered wood I-beams. Engineered wood I-beams are considered an excellent alternative to sawn lumber for floor joists due to their strength and overall lower installation costs. Wood I-beams look similar to the traditional steel I-beam. They consist of a center section constructed out of a thin layer of Oriented Strand Board (OSB) material that is sandwiched on top and bottom by two wide flange sections made out of finger jointed sawn lumber.

Typically there are cut-out or knock-out sections in the OSB material that can be removed for running electrical wires and heat ducts.

Engineered Wood I-beams have several major advantages. First, they are much stronger, straighter and stiffer than conventional sawn lumber. Data indicates that they are 50% stiffer than sawn lumber. Consequently they provide less deflection, which translates into better.

As a result of their strength, wood I-beams can be used to cover larger spans and can be separated on wider on-center spacings.
Thus, significant building costs can be achieved as less wood material and labor installation effort is required. Note: wood I-beams are more expensive than sawn lumber equivalent lengths; however, these initial material costs are more than offset due to fewer wood I-beam joists required on the project. With the benefits of increased on-center spacing and coverage of longer spans, typically fewer floor joists are needed and the traditional center beam required in most sawn lumber floor joist construction is eliminated.

Engineered wood I-beams are also much lighter than conventional sawn lumber (e.g. 2 x 10s or 2 x 12s) as they are constructed using a combination of finger jointed sawn lumber and OSB material. Wood I-beams can weigh up to 60% less than their sawn lumber counterparts.

Because of their unique construction wood I-beams do not warp, shrink, cup or twist and thus they are able to create stiffer floors that have fewer tendencies to settle or squeak."

Sorry! I just don't understand why some folks say OSB will not hold a screw without backing. I've had excellent results -

Thanks for all of the ideas and comments. This gives me quite a bit to think about.

charlese wrote:Sorry! I just don't understand why some folks say OSB will not hold a screw without backing. I've had excellent results -

Hi Chuck!

Are you saying that all of those cabinets are ONLY screwed to the OSB, and knot to the framing behind them??? You are a brave man!!!

BTW, I notice that your cabinets are made of ply and KNOT OSB.

a1gutterman wrote:Hi Chuck!

Are you saying that all of those cabinets are ONLY screwed to the OSB, and knot to the framing behind them??? You are a brave man!!!

BTW, I notice that your cabinets are made of ply and KNOT OSB.

Yes, only OSB and they are holding nicely for the last several years.

Cabinets are actually made from left over stock. Some plywood and some solid wood (pine). I wouldn't make a cabinet from OSB, but I would make an "I" beam!

F. Robinson,

After reading your comment about roof decking, went to the garage and yes, it is on 24" centers. I didn't know that it was legal in Florida, but it is supposed to withstand 140 mph winds. I suppose that truss spacing contributes to the "mushy" feeling when on the roof. Freaky unsafe feeling. Thanks for making me take a second look.

the old swampgator in Florida

OSB wouldn’t hold pocket screws. OSB is not structural. OSB may be a little too flaky, plus screws don’t hold in it all that well.