Rust and Polish
Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 4:45 pm
I very much appreciate everyone's help both on the forum and in private messages. Looks to be a good bunch here and you've really educated me quickly. The most advanced technique for rusted tools I've used is soaking in a bucket of transmission fluid or old oil for a week.
First, it sounds like the diameter of the way tubes isn't critical within several thousands of an inch so rust removal (on the tubes at least) generally won't affect how well the headstock slides, clamps, or how square it is on the tubes and I'm going to go out on a limb and assume this is also true for the carriage.
Secondly, for heavily rusted components, it sounds like electrolysis and Evapo-rust are the two best immersion methods. For those catching up on this subject, here is Mickyd's extremely helpful Thread Index on the restoration project, including electrolysis. It appears these methods will remove all oxidation but not the good metal. However, (and correct me if I'm wrong) electrolysis will take off paint, whereas Evapo-rust is less likely to do so. I bet Evapo-rust is a little easier to get than wash soda since it's available at my local Autozone and O'Reilly's. Also, Evapo-rust is reusable and doesn't require any sacrificial metal or voltage (however fun it may be). And since I don't have a battery charger or other variety of power inverter, I'm tentatively leaning toward purchasing a 5 gallon container of it. Maybe it will last me through the whole restoration since the quill is also frozen in the headstock, as are the feed and quill locks. Evapo-rust's website says it can be poured down the drain and Soaps Gone Buy says the electrolysis byproduct can even be poured on the lawn!
As for polishing (the original topic of this thread), a buddy of mine is an armature metal worker who also restores Jeeps. For Christmas last year I bought some rail road spike crosses he had made (see attached photos). He was able to achieve a mirror finish on the fairly soft steel with a series of three polishing compounds: black emery, green stainless, and chrome/jewelers rouge. So if it can be done for old RR spikes, a mirror finish should be possible on steel tubes. At least it is until I attempt it personally.
Once again, Mickyd has the subject thoroughly covered in a How-To Guide in a post that also covers aluminum polishing.
JPG40504: I was under the impression Citrusstrip was only for paint and grease removal. Will it take off rust corrosion too?
Thanks again, guys. Now I don't have to worry so much about damaging things as I get started.
Dalton
First, it sounds like the diameter of the way tubes isn't critical within several thousands of an inch so rust removal (on the tubes at least) generally won't affect how well the headstock slides, clamps, or how square it is on the tubes and I'm going to go out on a limb and assume this is also true for the carriage.
Secondly, for heavily rusted components, it sounds like electrolysis and Evapo-rust are the two best immersion methods. For those catching up on this subject, here is Mickyd's extremely helpful Thread Index on the restoration project, including electrolysis. It appears these methods will remove all oxidation but not the good metal. However, (and correct me if I'm wrong) electrolysis will take off paint, whereas Evapo-rust is less likely to do so. I bet Evapo-rust is a little easier to get than wash soda since it's available at my local Autozone and O'Reilly's. Also, Evapo-rust is reusable and doesn't require any sacrificial metal or voltage (however fun it may be). And since I don't have a battery charger or other variety of power inverter, I'm tentatively leaning toward purchasing a 5 gallon container of it. Maybe it will last me through the whole restoration since the quill is also frozen in the headstock, as are the feed and quill locks. Evapo-rust's website says it can be poured down the drain and Soaps Gone Buy says the electrolysis byproduct can even be poured on the lawn!
As for polishing (the original topic of this thread), a buddy of mine is an armature metal worker who also restores Jeeps. For Christmas last year I bought some rail road spike crosses he had made (see attached photos). He was able to achieve a mirror finish on the fairly soft steel with a series of three polishing compounds: black emery, green stainless, and chrome/jewelers rouge. So if it can be done for old RR spikes, a mirror finish should be possible on steel tubes. At least it is until I attempt it personally.
Once again, Mickyd has the subject thoroughly covered in a How-To Guide in a post that also covers aluminum polishing.JPG40504: I was under the impression Citrusstrip was only for paint and grease removal. Will it take off rust corrosion too?
Thanks again, guys. Now I don't have to worry so much about damaging things as I get started.
Dalton