Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:It is a good idea to leave the pin holding headstock lock to the rod(it is very difficult to get out/replace.

JPG, according to your reassembly guide, it is possible to remove and reinstall the lock assembly without removing the handle from the rod. I found this not to be the case on mine. Mine is a threaded rod with one half being left hand threads and the other right hand threads. Either the handle or the front (handle end) wedge has to be removed to remove the lock assembly. And you have to remove the handle to remove the wedge from the rod.

EDIT: I just went back to your reassembly guide and realize I made an error. Your headstock lock is just like mine. It's the carriage lock where our parts differ. Yours has washers and springs and such and can apparently be removed while still assembled. My carriage lock is designed and operates exactly like the headstock lock. All of the parts are interchangeable. The only difference between the two, on mine, is the label on the handle.

PG-Zac wrote:I'm busy stripping a Goldie, and I am removing all the pins as well.

I don't have any small pin punches, so I am making my own. I find an appropriately size nail and grind / file off the point. Hey presto - instant cheap pin punch. Sure it isn't hard and doesn't last too well, but it is only for this one project. If the end deforms, just regrind / refile and it's good for another few pins.

I don't have a set of punches either, so I used this same method when I was removing mine. Sometimes I had to use a small bolt. One thing that I found helped a lot was Kroil. Spray a little Kroil on the pin first, from both ends, wait a few seconds, then start tapping it out. Sometimes a little heat helped too. Other than bending a few nails and bolts (which was expected), I didn't have any real problems.

nuhobby wrote:Hi,
For that remaining bearing -- thats' a strange one. It looks like a rubber-seal bearing but the OEM part is metal-shielded. While it can be a tight fit in the headstock (varying with temperatures of bearing and casting), it should be much tighter (press-fit) to the drive-sleeve shaft itself.

You make an interesting point. I have noticed in going thru this headstock that it is apparent that some PO (previous owner) did some maintenance, and may well have made substitutions to some factory parts such as this bearing.

The belts are both new. Only 4 of the 5 motor pan screws were left and only about half of the motor cover screws. And some things came off too easily, like the tie bar. Both ends of the way tubes show multiple marks from the set screws in the tiebar.
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The power cord has been replaced and smothered with electrical tape inside the motor housing.
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These might be of interest to someone]8261[/ATTACH]
my "access holes" behind the logo medallion.

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the opening behind the speed changer

At this point I'm thinking about leaving that bearing where it is, unless there is a need to check it for accurate fit, but I'd still like to pull the wedge lock assembly out. If I drive the pin out of the handle, can I reuse it? Or is there a way to improve on what is there, i.e. a small set screw (which is what I thought it was at first).

the Arkansas Hermit

fiatben wrote:At this point I'm thinking about leaving that bearing where it is, unless there is a need to check it for accurate fit, but I'd still like to pull the wedge lock assembly out. If I drive the pin out of the handle, can I reuse it? Or is there a way to improve on what is there, i.e. a small set screw (which is what I thought it was at first).

the Arkansas Hermit

I re-used my pins. Just keep track of which ones go where. And when you reinstall them, make sure the ends are not mushroomed. They should have a very slight bevel on the end.

For disassembly, I can't recommend highly enough a good organization system. I used the ziplock baggie system (got the idea from MickyD). As you remove parts, put them by groups in ziplock bags, and label the bags with the name of the assembly and the diagram numbers (there are different exploded views out there with different diagram numbers for each part, so pick one and stick to that one as your numbering system). Then I put all of those baggies in a cardboard box.

After I got the big, main parts (legs, headstock casting, headrest, base, etc) cleaned up and painted, I started going through one bag at a time and cleaning up (or replacing) the parts in each bag. As I "processed" each bag, I moved it to a new cardboard box to easily keep track of which bags were "done" and which ones still needed attention.

heathicus wrote: For disassembly, I can't recommend highly enough a good organization system. I used the ziplock baggie system (got the idea from MickyD). As you remove parts, put them by groups in ziplock bags, and label the bags with the name of the assembly and the diagram numbers (there are different exploded views out there with different diagram numbers for each part, so pick one and stick to that one as your numbering system). Then I put all of those baggies in a cardboard box.

Yeah, I knew I needed to keep things orderly as I know that there will be gaps of time in which things will be quickly forgotten, so....
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I had these plastic trays that I've moved around forever and finally found a good use for them. Notice the second one from the right has baggies with index cards in them, noting what it is that I've pulled and placed in it. And, as is obvious by now, I'm taking lots of pictures just so I don't have to worry about what I forget.

I'm kinda proud of the quickie workbench I made of the base. It's a piece of strandboard and a 2 x 4 that I drilled two 1-7/8" holes in, then cut in half down the middle and mounted to the board to fit over the bench tubes. It is rock solid, totally free and took about 15 minutes.

heathicus wrote:JPG, according to your reassembly guide, it is possible to remove and reinstall the lock assembly without removing the handle from the rod. I found this not to be the case on mine. Mine is a threaded rod with one half being left hand threads and the other right hand threads. Either the handle or the front (handle end) wedge has to be removed to remove the lock assembly. And you have to remove the handle to remove the wedge from the rod.

EDIT: I just went back to your reassembly guide and realize I made an error. Your headstock lock is just like mine. It's the carriage lock where our parts differ. Yours has washers and springs and such and can apparently be removed while still assembled. My carriage lock is designed and operates exactly like the headstock lock. All of the parts are interchangeable. The only difference between the two, on mine, is the label on the handle.


I don't have a set of punches either, so I used this same method when I was removing mine. Sometimes I had to use a small bolt. One thing that I found helped a lot was Kroil. Spray a little Kroil on the pin first, from both ends, wait a few seconds, then start tapping it out. Sometimes a little heat helped too. Other than bending a few nails and bolts (which was expected), I didn't have any real problems.

The difference between the carriage lock is that of the 500 vs a 505 - 520. The larger table versions have a different design which allows a quarter turn release.

The scotchlocks on the motor wiring are not standard issue either!

The headstock casting is an 'original' sand cast version. they are heavier than the later die cast version(s) and somewhat rougher.

I would still remove the 'stuck' bearing. You need to determine why it was 'looser' on the shaft. A pipe or a wooden dowelwith an od near to the bore diameter(and square) should be used. It may be a good idea to replace the bearings regardless!!

JPG40504 wrote: I would still remove the 'stuck' bearing. You need to determine why it was 'looser' on the shaft. A pipe or a wooden dowelwith an od near to the bore diameter(and square) should be used. It may be a good idea to replace the bearings regardless!!

I'm tending to agree with you, JPG. I've been going thru things piece by piece now that everything is out. Both bearing on the drive are MCR 205 SZZ (I think, left my notes in the barn) and have rubber seals. So, obviously, at some point a PO (previous owner) replaced them. I'm thinking it can't be too hard to replace bearings on this shaft, or is it?

On a more serious note, the quill appears to be a double bearing quill, even though I have a 7-spline shaft and toothed gear on the drive shaft, consistent with it being a '55. I can kinda see the 2nd bearing if I get sunlight down the tube just right, and I can't get past it with my long hex. But then I also remember Drew's rebuild of the goldie and how he at first thought it was a double bearing but it turned out to be a washer. Is there anyway to know for sure short of totally dissembling the quill? There is a LOT of play in the splined shaft on the quill, which I know I will want to get rid of. I'm sure the answers are somewhere in the forum, but right now my back hurts and I'm anxious to finish going thru all the parts and then start cleaning things. I'll post more later.

fiatben wrote:I'm tending to agree with you, JPG. I've been going thru things piece by piece now that everything is out. Both bearing on the drive are MCR 205 SZZ (I think, left my notes in the barn) and have rubber seals. So, obviously, at some point a PO (previous owner) replaced them. I'm thinking it can't be too hard to replace bearings on this shaft, or is it?

On a more serious note, the quill appears to be a double bearing quill, even though I have a 7-spline shaft and toothed gear on the drive shaft, consistent with it being a '55. I can kinda see the 2nd bearing if I get sunlight down the tube just right, and I can't get past it with my long hex. But then I also remember Drew's rebuild of the goldie and how he at first thought it was a double bearing but it turned out to be a washer. Is there anyway to know for sure short of totally dissembling the quill? There is a LOT of play in the splined shaft on the quill, which I know I will want to get rid of. I'm sure the answers are somewhere in the forum, but right now my back hurts and I'm anxious to finish going thru all the parts and then start cleaning things. I'll post more later.

This could come in handy!!!!! It is a pita to use, but does get the job done! Yes the bearings are near zero clearance on the shaft(both the main shaft and the quill).

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=93980&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=

After reviewing this link, I am concerned that they may no longer be commonly available(no price listed...)

heathicus wrote:JPG, according to your reassembly guide, it is possible to remove and reinstall the lock assembly without removing the handle from the rod. I found this not to be the case on mine. Mine is a threaded rod with one half being left hand threads and the other right hand threads. Either the handle or the front (handle end) wedge has to be removed to remove the lock assembly. And you have to remove the handle to remove the wedge from the rod.

One thing that I found helped a lot was Kroil.

OK, I have a question. What the heck is Kroil?

Yep, had the same thing, reversed threads on the other end and blank bar stock in the middle, so the only way the front wedge was coming off was the end with the handle.

Turns out it was very easy to knock out the pin. I took a nail that looked about right, ground off the tip and ground the diameter down to about right, a couple of light taps with a hammer and it was a done deal. I suspect putting it back together may take more effort.
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And, yes, the wedges are really chewed up. I'm going to flatten them and see if that will work. How critical is the angle of the grind?

And I spent a little time with my wire wheel in my drill, cleaning the front side of the headstock. I'm still undecided about painted versus brushed aluminum, but if I'm going to paint, the surface will be really clean and ready.
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FILE the wedges where the wear has pushed material out into the od of the wedge. Remove the 'hump' on the 'flat' angled surface. I would not go much beyond that.

Kroil is a brand name of a penetrating oil. IMHO kerosene works quite well. The pins should go back in fairly easily - make sure the holes line up! I start them with gentle tapping with a small hammer, then either squeeze them back in(channel locks or clamp/vise) or continue tapping them all the way. Make sure the ends are not mushroomed(have a slight chamfer). The important thing is to insert them straight and apply force straight.

BTW What are you using the cedar darning form for?

Nice to see someone else in the throws of restoration. I have removed EVERYTHING from my 1954 Greenie and everything is getting either cleaned and polished or repainted. I broke down and brought all of the castings to a local stripping place after attempting to strip the paint off of most of the stuff. The stripper was working but was very time consuming and messy. I got all of the castings plastic blasted for $95.00 which wasn't bad and they are all now completely clean and ready for primer and paint. They will get coats of hammered black and silver as the local store didn't have the green hammered finishes I wanted plus I was too enamored with the green anyway.

The lock rod handle can be removed quite easily after you remove the roll pin holding the handle on. I bought a set of pin punches from Harbor Freight that only cost $10-15 and it has worked perfectly for removing all of the roll pins they use on the machine.

The bearing in the housing should be removed, you need to remove the spring retaining ring in front of the bearing to allow you to remove it from the "short" side, another the words the side where you only have to push it out towards the inside of the casting. I would highly recommend replacing all of the bearings as they are unknown vintage and it is good piece of mind knowing all are new. Plus the bearing are cheap I bought all of mine from VXB Bearings online.

The quill will come out of the housing if you remove the allen head set screw oin the top of the housing. This is probably filled with something to cover it and makes it easy to miss. This set screw keeps the quill from over travelling. Thanks to Bill Mayo I leaned this the hard way. If you remove the snap ring at the front of the quill you can tap the splined shaft out of the quill housing rather easily and the other "bearing" is probably a washer pressed onto the shaft like both my Mark VII and V.

The cord on my Greenie was shot so I removed it with a pair of diagnal cutters and will replace it with a brand new cord when I get to that point.

The other thing I was pleased with was the casters on my Greenie were in very sad shape but once I completely disassembled them and took them the bench grinder and wire wheeled them and polished them they came back to life and I have one set all ready done and they work as new plus the mounting housings I removed the paint and polished them to a high shine and look cool.

This is a labor of love and not to be done quickly. Enjoy the journey and take your time. Once complete you will be very pleased and happy with the results plus you will have a machine that is worry free and should last a long time to come.