Shopsmith Forums

charlese wrote:I'm not familiar with belt conditioner, so can't say how often to apply, other than Bill Mayo's post.

The belt conditioner is to prevent the tires from cracking. Once cracking begins, I would use the silicone in a spray can to full in the cracks. A little bit of the belt conditioner will go a long way. I actually do this whenever I lubricate the headstock, once or twice a year. I also spray the Gilmer or Poly-V and the motor belt at the same time with the belt conditioner. I check the Gilmer or Poly-V belt tension at this time along with blowing any sawdust from inside the headstock too. A nice check list with last time done written on the list helps me keep track of maintenance on the Shopsmith headstock.

That shows what a dunce I am. I just assumed that the "belt conditioner" mentioned by Bill Mayo, and the "silicone spray" mentioned by charlese was the same thing. But the belt conditioner does seem to have helped the tires a great deal. I'll try to find some silicone spray, though.

Even further evidence that I'm a dunce: I didn't even think about referring to the manual other than for the exploded parts view that I had photocopied until JPG's suggestion to do so.

Anyway, I did the push/pull thing on the upper wheel and that seems to have cured that problem. I have perhaps a 1/4" clearance between the straight edge placed on the upper wheel and the top of the lower wheel. I'm able to tighten the blade and it's tracking great.

I also went back to the bearing store this morning and took the shoulder screw with me. Turns out there was some 1/4" bore bearings mixed in with their 7mm bore bearings and I got the 1/4" ones. So the "auto-tract" bearings have been properly replaced. Still need to get the front upper and lower roller bearings. I think I've figured out the "627ZZ bearing mod" that CML mentioned. I just need to get the bearings now. The local store wanted almost $6 for them ($6 x 4 = $24 - a little more than I was wanting to spend right now on top of the $12 I had already spent). How does that price compare to other vendors?

I need to get some more blades too. I have three of the same 1/4" blade.

$6 for 627ZZ bearings seems about right for retail. Shopsmith sells them for $5.50ish, but shipping takes awhile (and costs $). Same for other online sources. My local hardware store wanted $8, but didn't have any in stock.

heathicus wrote:...I did the push/pull thing on the upper wheel and that seems to have cured that problem. I have perhaps a 1/4" clearance between the straight edge placed on the upper wheel and the top of the lower wheel. I'm able to tighten the blade and it's tracking great....
.

As you found out, 1/4" will work!

Another problem. My table (cast iron) is not flat. The table droops a little toward the left (or would that be "back"?). I do have the "table leveling latch" in place and the bolts tight. The droop starts at the slit in the table and is about 1/16" (eyeball measurement) below my straight edge at the far left side. From front to back, the table is flat. How much of a problem does this pose?

Hi, I think this shouldn't be much of a problem. As Ed in Tampa said once, most bandsaw cuts need to be "sweetened" later with a sander or a plane operation anyway. And that's not a complaint; it's more of 'part of the fun.'

Can the blade tension spring lose its strength or am I over tightening the blade?

I was watching one of the Woodworking Online podcasts on bandsaws and have been following their guide on blade tension. The procedure he gave was to set a ruler on the table with the end at the blade. Pulling on the blade with your finger, you should just be able to pull it to 1/4", but without having to pull so hard it turns your finger white. To reach this tightness with my 1/4" blade, I have to tighten the tension spring pretty much all the way down.

Am I over tightening? Has the tension spring lost its strength? Is something wrong with my machine or the operator?

heathicus wrote:Can the blade tension spring lose its strength or am I over tightening the blade?

I was watching one of the Woodworking Online podcasts on bandsaws and have been following their guide on blade tension. The procedure he gave was to set a ruler on the table with the end at the blade. Pulling on the blade with your finger, you should just be able to pull it to 1/4", but without having to pull so hard it turns your finger white. To reach this tightness with my 1/4" blade, I have to tighten the tension spring pretty much all the way down.

Am I over tightening? Has the tension spring lost its strength? Is something wrong with my machine or the operator?

Probably! Doubtful! no/yes! Were those podcasts pertinent to a SS bandsaw?

I just tried the white finger method, and I could not get correlation.

I would dismiss the podcasts as non-relevant, and just do as ss says!

JPG40504 wrote:Probably! Doubtful! no/yes! Were those podcasts pertinent to a SS bandsaw?

I just tried the white finger method, and I could not get correlation.

I would dismiss the podcasts as non-relevant, and just do as ss says!

No, it wasn't a SS bandsaw he was using, but my assumption was that optimum blade tension would be about the same regardless of model of bandsaw. Different model band saws just have different ways of tensioning the blade, but the tension itself is pretty much the same. No? Did I assume wrong?

With the tension gauge set for a 1/4" blade, my blade really seems a bit loose.

Just had another thought. Maybe the blade is longer than 72"? This blade came with the machine from the previous owner. Maybe he picked up a slightly longer blade locally?

heathicus wrote:No, it wasn't a SS bandsaw he was using, but my assumption was that optimum blade tension would be about the same regardless of model of bandsaw. Different model band saws just have different ways of tensioning the blade, but the tension itself is pretty much the same. No? Did I assume wrong?

With the tension gauge set for a 1/4" blade, my blade really seems a bit loose.

Just had another thought. Maybe the blade is longer than 72"? This blade came with the machine from the previous owner. Maybe he picked up a slightly longer blade locally?

A possibility!!!! Suggest you measure the distance between the wheels. If the blade is too long it will be too far apart by 1/2 the 'extra length'. Mine measures 7 13/16" from wheel(not the tires) to wheel at the back edge of the aluminum table. By eyeball they are about 1/16 + 1/16 closer at the axis position. The tension was set 1 turn BELOW 1/8"(loose).

However the calibrated arm moves with the wheel(up/down) so the tension MAY be independent of the blade circumference(within reason).

Do tell what you 'discover'.