Shopsmith Forums

dusty wrote:
I do tend to work on the right side of the blade. Cannot say why, just do.

I do too with the fence... If I work with the fence on the left side of the blade I feel like I am hanging upside down from the ceiling.
On the other hand I rarely ever use the miter gauge in the right hand slot.
Of course I tend to just do a lot of very basic stuff. If a cut is going to require a lot of Mickey Mouse changes to do it safely I am pretty quick to just use hand tools.
...I can explain what those are if anybody doesn't know...
.
BTW, I also almost always work at a vise mounted at the right end of a bench and I always use my hatchet right handed.

dusty wrote:However, this morning I did make some slight changes. I thoroughly cleaned and lubricated (graphite dust) the moving parts of the rip fence. This changed the tactile feel when securing the two locks but did nothing for the problem. I then tightened the nut on the lower locking bar (1/8 of a turn). This eliminates the movement on the infeed end of the rip fence.

Sounds like "problem corrected". Well not quite. Now, when I apply the lower lock, the outfeed end on the rip fence changes position and it has never done that before. It changes very little but it changes. Why???

Dusty
This movement is the problem I have had with the 520 since I got it.
This is the movement I described in another thread that everyone seemed to think I was a little nuts on. For me to position the 520 fence I have to pump the lower lock handle and few times and make slight adjustments to the fence to get it to lock where it should be.
Can be a little frustrating but since I know it is there it has become part of my fence setup and I just move on.

This is probably why I don't have a problem locking over the joint I had a tighter lock on the front than you first did.

robinson46176 wrote:I do too with the fence... If I work with the fence on the left side of the blade I feel like I am hanging upside down from the ceiling.
On the other hand I rarely ever use the miter gauge in the right hand slot.
Of course I tend to just do a lot of very basic stuff. If a cut is going to require a lot of Mickey Mouse changes to do it safely I am pretty quick to just use hand tools.
...I can explain what those are if anybody doesn't know...
.
BTW, I also almost always work at a vise mounted at the right end of a bench and I always use my hatchet right handed.

Farmer
Hand Tools???? You mean like a table saw that stands five hands high or what?

dusty wrote: Now, when I apply the lower lock, the outfeed end on the rip fence changes position and it has never done that before. It changes very little but it changes. Why???

One of the things Rick Davis always emphasized at the Traveling Academies was making sure the Lock end of the fence was tight against the table before applying the clamps. At one time he mentioned partially setting the outfeed end clamp before fully locking down the infeed end. Kind of a four stage lockdown: partial infeed, partial outfeed, full infeed, full outfeed. Kind of like torquing head bolts.
If you are still getting movement with that system, I would look at 3 things:
1. Check all your table rails with the set-up gauges that came with the 520. Something may have slipped or been twisted a little.
2. Check the connector tubes for divots and maybe rotate them?
3. Triple check the fence alignment and tightness. I know that is the first thing you checked, but do it again after verifying the table rails.

Myself not having a 520(or parts thereof), I need pix of what a 520 does to 'clamp'. If I understand at all, the front clamps by way of a beveled shoe that presses against a complimentary bevel on the back of the front rail(s). The clamp lever causes the 'shoe' to move toward the rail. I assume the 'bumpers' you referred to are on the opposite side of the front. I also assume the bumpers are further apart than the width of the shoe.

If any of that be accurate, I would be looking at the surface the shoe presses against on the back beveled edge of the rail(s).

JPG40504 wrote:Myself not having a 520(or parts thereof), I need pix of what a 520 does to 'clamp'. If I understand at all, the front clamps by way of a beveled shoe that presses against a complimentary bevel on the back of the front rail(s). The clamp lever causes the 'shoe' to move toward the rail. I assume the 'bumpers' you referred to are on the opposite side of the front. I also assume the bumpers are further apart than the width of the shoe.

If any of that be accurate, I would be looking at the surface the shoe presses against on the back beveled edge of the rail(s).

Here are a few shots that I offer in response to your request. If these don't answer your questions, more can be provided.

Sorry about the order, hope the labels help.

And here are 4 more:

dusty wrote:And here are 4 more:

Thank You! Most enlightening! Some more detail on the front rail surfaces would be useful.

As I understand it, the fence was drifting on the front to cause the kickback!

JPG40504 wrote:Thank You! Most enlightening! Some more detail on the front rail surfaces would be useful.

As I understand it, the fence was drifting on the front to cause the kickback!

Beginning with post #18 in this thread, you will find some excellent photos that show the front and rear rails.

dusty wrote:Beginning with post #18 in this thread, you will find some excellent photos that show the front and rear rails.

Excellent indeed! Tnx:)


BTW I ferget how to do what you did re "this thread" i.e. relacce a 'link' with 'other words'.