Shopsmith Forums

The right size pin punch and a ball peen hammer will resolve this issue. When one uses a nail or other make shift pin to drive out the roll pin - if the tool is too small - the roll pin gets spread further making it harder to drive out.

About $4.00 will solve the problem.

Well I have ruined the roll pin. I bought a set of punches but I guess it was too late cause the pin just collapsed in on it self. I can get it out or in. I tried drilling it out to no avail. I don't know why a roll pin had to be used here when everything else comes apart so elegantly with an allen wrench. I guess I have to keep trying to drill it out.

russsaw wrote:Well I have ruined the roll pin. I bought a set of punches but I guess it was too late cause the pin just collapsed in on it self. I can get it out or in. I tried drilling it out to no avail. I don't know why a roll pin had to be used here when everything else comes apart so elegantly with an allen wrench. I guess I have to keep trying to drill it out.

Welcome to the world of rebuilding the Shopsmith. I did 2 complete machines before starting on my third one recently and I totally destroyed the main headstock casting while removing the quill drive spindle to replace the bearings. I just worked too fast on it thinking I knew what I was doing instead of taking my time and figuring out why it didn't want to come out easily like the others. So I had to buy a used headstock casting to replace the one I cracked. Another $40.00 down the drain. You will just have to suffer through drilling it out now. I have found that the Irwin turbo drill bits are the best around at drilling through most metals.

russsaw wrote:Well I have ruined the roll pin. I bought a set of punches but I guess it was too late cause the pin just collapsed in on it self. I can get it out or in. I tried drilling it out to no avail. I don't know why a roll pin had to be used here when everything else comes apart so elegantly with an allen wrench. I guess I have to keep trying to drill it out.

I assume that the roll pin is still in the base arm pin which is still in the base. If that is correct, be careful not to break the base casting by hammering on that pin.

The pin that you are trying to drive out is over an inch long ( I think 1 1/4").

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The steel in the 'spring'/tension/roll pin is very hard. Drilling will not be easy. At this point I think driving it out from the back is the better approach. If it has not moved much from earlier attempts, the interior end of the tension pin will NOT be proud of the hole in the hinge pin. The hole will guide a pin punch and prevent mushrooming or bending. You will need a punch longer than 'typical'.