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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 4:06 pm
by Underdog
Nice work!!!
I've got 3 old motors out in the garage that I intend on repurposing, one that was supposedly bad. It's good to see there are people on this board that I'll be able to turn to when needed.
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:21 pm
by john_001
I hope the motor will prove to be salvagable. Its 1 1/8 hp replacement has been installed and is working fine. Good luck and enjoy!
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:45 pm
by JPG
john_001 wrote:I hope the motor will prove to be salvagable. Its 1 1/8 hp replacement has been installed and is working fine. Good luck and enjoy!
Thank You for the opportunity to get familiar with this version motor. I may decide to make it reversible or maybe also 115/230 V. Depends on what I 'discover' when I replace the original rubber insulated external wires.
GE 3/4 hp motor start relay
Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 5:58 pm
by JPG
Here is what the start relay looks like.
[ATTACH]12682[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]12683[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]12685[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]12686[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]12687[/ATTACH]
The relay coil is between terminals 5 and 2.
The contacts are between terminals 1 and 2.
Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 4:53 pm
by john_001
I ran the motor with the white wire disconnected from contact #5 on the start relay - that's what caused the smoking. The clip had broken off, and for some reason, the broken piece of the clip had also fallen off the terminal, so there was nothing to show where it had been.
Live and learn!
Big Question
Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:05 pm
by dusty
Is the white wire not the AC return in this motor setup? or is this being used 220VAC?
If it is the return, would there be current through the motor windings?
Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:13 pm
by JPG
Look what arrived this afternoon! Too cold to use today. After it warms up.....
[ATTACH]12717[/ATTACH]
Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 5:22 pm
by JPG
dusty wrote:Is the white wire not the AC return in this motor setup? or is this being used 220VAC?
If it is the return, would there be current through the motor windings?
You Betcha!!! Right out the top of the motor in that wiring drawing. The wire broke off terminal 5. That left the contact(closed) and capacitor in series with the start winding. Both the start winding and the run windings are connected internally to the white neutral wire of the motor. 120 v only!
P.S. The terminal that broke off the relay terminal 5 'spliced' the motor wire and the wire from the switch.
Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 9:18 pm
by john_001
The two white wires to terminal 5 were disconnected from terminal 5, but unfortunately they were still connected together, so the motor ran, but with smokey consequences.
Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 12:21 pm
by billmayo
JPG40504 wrote:Thank You for the opportunity to get familiar with this version motor. I may decide to make it reversible or maybe also 115/230 V. Depends on what I 'discover' when I replace the original rubber insulated external wires.
The capacitor and start windings only operate at 110 VAC. When doing 220 VAC input, the start windings are only connected across only one of the two run winding coils.
I find it takes a lot of scraping to remove the insulating varnish from the ends of the coil windings so I can solder new wires to the coil winding ends. I use shrink wrap tubing over the soldered joints and then spray insulating varnish on the shrink wrap tubing.
I have been using 2 4" long TEFZEL cable ties (they can handle more than twice the temperature than normal cable ties) in place of using coil wrappings at several places. They fit in the holes where the coil wires are routed so securing the new wires to the coil windings are easy to do.