Shopsmith Forums

anyone know what to do when their greenie serial number falls into the black hole of non numbers on that chart from SHOPSMITH?
I just got my first Greenie, and the number is 332010.
Pics to follow, unloading the truck today.
What a great holiday this is turning out to be!

wiredone wrote:anyone know what to do when their greenie serial number falls into the black hole of non numbers on that chart from SHOPSMITH?
I just got my first Greenie, and the number is 332010.
Pics to follow, unloading the truck today.
What a great holiday this is turning out to be!

Late 57 or early 58 would be my guess. We do not know actual monthly production, but based upon about almost 1700/month . . .

JPG40504 wrote:Late 57 or early 58 would be my guess. We do not know actual monthly production, but based upon about almost 1700/month . . .

Now I see what your logic is, and doing the math and going by the numbers on the chart at the bottom of your first link, it would seem that early 1957 would be the best guess.
Didn't once write that the greenie headstocks are heavier castings than a B casting? I have a current 1984 model that I was going to upgrade, but being a Nostalgia nut, perhaps the Greenie would do better with all the modern guts transferred inside. Add a set of 10ER top tubes for fun and that would hopefully add up to less vibration?
Thanks for the help!
here's a linkage to the other thread that I posted pics on. Kind of a tool Gloat, my bad.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... post105643

wiredone wrote:Now I see what your logic is, and doing the math and going by the numbers on the chart at the bottom of your first link, it would seem that early 1957 would be the best guess.
Didn't once write that the greenie headstocks are heavier castings than a B casting? I have a current 1984 model that I was going to upgrade, but being a Nostalgia nut, perhaps the Greenie would do better with all the modern guts transferred inside. Add a set of 10ER top tubes for fun and that would hopefully add up to less vibration?
Thanks for the help!
here's a linkage to the other thread that I posted pics on. Kind of a tool Gloat, my bad.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... post105643

The first Greenie headstocks (no access hole under the Logo cover 1954-55?) had the sand cast headstock which is heavier and thicker. Later Greenie headstocks used the same headstock molds (B) as the Poly-V headstocks from the 60s, 70s and 80s.

You will need to add the access hole and other changes to the sand cast (A) headstock so it has the same capability as the later B headstocks. This is the headstock casing (A) I use for my personal use (after modifications) for many reasons.

thanks for the info Bill. It appears (DRATS!) that I have an early B casting.
Do you think it's worthwhile to scrounge up a sand casting?
notice any diff in vibration?

wiredone wrote:thanks for the info Bill. It appears (DRATS!) that I have an early B casting.
Do you think it's worthwhile to scrounge up a sand casting?
notice any diff in vibration?

I would not bother(I have two already). In addition to the extra 'thickness' is the roughness of the sand casting(all over, not just the exterior).

By the same token, I would not hesitate to use one(including a Power Pro upgrade(DIY)).

I am reluctant to add the 'access' hole to one. For starters I do not think it provides much 'access' and my hands and the fangs are not compatible on my Goldie. I am more likely to drop the motor pan for lubricating etc. anyway. The A headstock has 6 more screws to remove the belt cover, and the cover is stubborn to get on/off(stamping/sand casting tolerances).

And yes I like 10e/r way tubes!

wiredone wrote:thanks for the info Bill. It appears (DRATS!) that I have an early B casting.
Do you think it's worthwhile to scrounge up a sand casting?
notice any diff in vibration?

No, I only used them for my personal Shopsmiths because I have acquired a few in Shopsmiths over time and did not want to scrape all of them. I did not feel there was a market for the sand cast headstocks without the access hole.

I added a 3 1/8" access hole (max size & still use Logo cover). I rounded the inside edge of the access hole to provide easier access and prevent cutting my hand when reaching inside the headstock. I drill and tap for a 10-24 screw and body washer to hold the eccentric bushing. I use a 10-24 tap for the screw holes for the motor pan and the middle belt cover holes in the headstock. I use 10-24 stainless steel screws in this headstock.

If there is less noise and vibration, it would be for each person to call. Due to internal parts operating along with belt noise, I could not say there is any difference. I believe the use of the 10ER tubes does helps to reduce noise and vibration.

Luckily, I have a healthy quantity of 10E/ER thickwalled tubes in my collection.
Also, luckily, the motor is good, the P.O. installed a new capqacitor and it works jes' fine.
Guess I'll button it up an maybe make a sanding station out of it.