cross cut sleds

[mtn goat]

bristol,
No worries about cutting the sled exactly square...in fact, the sled itself doesnt need to be square at all. It can really be any shape you want, square, circle, although a dodecahedron might be a little odd. The important part is to make the fence square to the blade. That is easily done by starting with one screw/bolt holding down the fence on only one side and pivoting it until you are exactly square. (checking with the 5 cut method). Might take a few tries, but its quite easy to do.
-chet

[JPG]

bristol,
No worries about cutting the sled exactly square...in fact, the sled itself doesnt need to be square at all. It can really be any shape you want, square, circle, although a dodecahedron might be a little odd. The important part is to make the fence square to the blade. That is easily done by starting with one screw/bolt holding down the fence on only one side and pivoting it until you are exactly square. (checking with the 5 cut method). Might take a few tries, but its quite easy to do.
-chet

Miter bar slots parallel to the blade helps!;)

[dlbristol]

OK, I think I will give this a try. I just found out that I bought a couple of hand planes and so the SS option is out until the " fun fund" is replenished anyway.
Here is my plan.
1: check the SS alignment and be sure all is well there.
2: use some recycled materials to make a sled. I have some pretty nice plywood recycled from an old clinic, that should work well.
3. locate the old feeler gauge and clean it up for a new use.
4. use the 5 cut method to get the fence and blade at 90 degrees. I might as well try to learn something here! ( one source assures me that 1/128 is about as good as I can get!:rolleyes:
Thanks to all of you. I looked at the Wood Whisperer video again, and somehow I missed the way he did the adjustment. Not sure how I missed it twice, but I did. As soon as I saw that part, it seemed a lot less intimidating.
Chet, dodecahedron!? that is a thought, no, I can't go there! That is just to many hedrons!!! I get the thought thanks.

[charlese]

Just made on yesterday. Has 2 runners and sits entirely on the right side of the saw blade. It handles panels that hang off of the extension table. Cutoffs to the left of the blade.

One runner rides in the right miter groove the other rides along an edge of a floating table.

Made it from scrap plywood, oak runners and a poplar fence, not pretty but it is very functional.

Trick is to make both runners parallel then slide the sled through the blade to get a straight edge from the saw. Second trick is to put a trailing fence on the sled board and align it at right angles to the saw blade with a carpenter's square. Thirdly - if needed, put a wedge on the right side of the sled to make the cuts perfectly square.

Whole operation to make this sled was 2 hours. First hour to let the glue dry beneath the runners.

[dusty]

Thanks all, I guess this all boils down to whether or not I can get it square.

Dusty, how do you adjust your fence? I saw a plan some where that used 5 , 1/4 in bolts to fasten the fence to the sled. all but 1 hole (in the center I think) was a bit over sized to allow movement. Several of my research examples are "squared up and screwed in place" which is what I am worried about. most just use a square on the blade and then fasten it. If I use something like the 5 cut method, how do you keep things from moving during the adjustment? I could see myself with hundreds of little pieces of wood and no square fence! I will look at the Wood whisperer again, he always does a good job teaching.

Jim, I think I am leaning toward your solution unless I can get lots more comfortable with some other issues. My precision squares are very accurate, but my technique is sometimes less so.

Francis, I like the idea of stopping the sled with the runners, If I go that route , I will do that. I like your blade cover as well. together they are the best safety feature I have seen.

Along the edge where the fence goes (when done) and into the fence. I predrilled and number of screw holes. Some of these are not used during the initial setup.

The fence was prealigned square and clamped when these holes were drilled. I then secured two screws, opposite ends, and checked square. Being square a permanently installed every other screw.

If I later must realign, I will loosen all but the left end screw (acts as a pivot point) square the fence and reinstall screws.

To make sure it is secure, I can either use longer screws or utilize the previously unused holes.

I counter bored all the holes so that the screw heads would be subsurface. I used flat head sheet metals screws (1 1/4" I think).

Now that I have done a Main Table realignment to center the blade in the table insert, I may need to realign this table. I failed to check this table.

[dlbristol]

Thanks Dusty, I thought you might have done something like that. Lots of ideas and plenty of help. I appreciate all the help. As with most things, I need to just focus on the accuracy and execute it.

[oddie]

I, too, have had a sled on my todo list. I have a question and an observation.

How about using UHMW (Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) for the runners? I have seen it discussed in other places and it is available in 3/4" x 3/8" strips.

Went to my barber this AM and the first magazine I picked up featured a sled at the top of the cover. Very interesting article with some other ideas and approaches. It's Woodcraft Magazine, Vol 6, No. 34, April/May 10 (it's an old barbershop with low overhead), pages 21-25.

[dusty]

I, too, have had a sled on my todo list. I have a question and an observation.

How about using UHMW (Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) for the runners? I have seen it discussed in other places and it is available in 3/4" x 3/8" strips.

Went to my barber this AM and the first magazine I picked up featured a sled at the top of the cover. Very interesting article with some other ideas and approaches. It's Woodcraft Magazine, Vol 6, No. 34, April/May 10 (it's an old barbershop with low overhead), pages 21-25.

UHMV would work wonderfully. I am frugal. If I can make it without buying something, I will. I don't have any UHMV.

How to attach it is another consideration. I can't voice an opinion because I have not used any that had to be so attached.

A couple people here on the forum use UHMV. Hopefully one of them with applicable experience will chime in.

[robinson46176]

UHMV would work wonderfully. I am frugal. If I can make it without buying something, I will. I don't have any UHMV.

How to attach it is another consideration. I can't voice an opinion because I have not used any that had to be so attached.

A couple people here on the forum use UHMV. Hopefully one of them with applicable experience will chime in.

Your reason for not using it is the same as mine. I think it would work great, I just don't have any.
"modern" (not me ) farmers use a lot of it for a large number of heavy wear surfaces that they want to stay slick. Everything from facing plow moldboards to material sliding surfaces in combines. A local farm store (Orscheln's) sells it here in sheets that I believe are 4' X 8'. Thicknesses are from about 1/8" up to "I think" 3/4". I seem to recall (notice that I am being vague because I am not sure) that the thick stuff was about $70+ a sheet. I would like to pick up a sheet for jigs, just haven't done it.


.

[dlbristol]

I looked at that, and found a supplier, Peach Street i think, that has smaller pieces and even some cut to runner size. If you goggle UHMW you will find a bunch of places to get it. I decided not to use it for the same reasons that Dusty and Farmer stated. The apparent advantages are stability and slickness. I might consider it if I had issues with humidity, but here, we seldom have any problems. Some where I saw a sled with the bottom covered with it.
As for fastening, I assumed that it was just screwed in since it is machined just like wood.