Shopsmith Forums

mrhart wrote:I have made contatc with a forum member who has a replacement knob-bearing-screw ect. Will start the aquasition process today.

I looked last night at the diagram and the saw, I guess what is most likely bent it the tensioning rod itself. Don't know if that is a problem really or not. But the new proper knob ect may be the ticket.

I called SS this morning to ask about my blade mount upgrade that was on backorder, (heard crazy stories about long time frames)...Bingo, going out today! Thats when I heard in my mind "Joy to the World" but it wasn't an angelic voice, more like Chevy Chase.
There was lights too.

That vintage tension rod is no longer available but the new one can be adapted to 'work'. The bend should not cause a problem unless it is hitting something.

Recieved a newer tension adjustemnt knob from a fine member in the San Diego area yesterday. I was definatley missing a ton of parts here. I will pic the process over the weekend as my SS blade upgrade should be here this week as well.

To anyone with the scroll saw upgrade, I opened the package last night and scoped out the project. The first step is removing the old adjustment handle and installing the new one. Don't see a new one in the package?? Can anyone take a pic of what I should have before I call SS ?

My vertical rod that the adjustment handle mounts on is definately bent, is that steel a type that can be straightened, or would it be brittle and break?

Put my upgrade kit on today. I see the difference this will make but I'll miss the aluminum and metal. One of the reasons I like the SS tools is becasue they're stout and solid and not much pastic.
As you've all mentioned here, blade tensioning is definately a "feel" kind of a deal. I sorted the 200 or so blades I got with the saw and it looks like I have 5 different sizes.
I got this stand mount scroll saw for $50 so it was a deal. I would guess all the abuse of this machine was due to one fall sideways in a move maybe I suspect. The only thing not right on it now is the bent tensioning rod which seems of no significance as JPG stated and a piece of cast chipped out of my front trunion which SS no longer makes anyway. I've put some time and parts and shipping into it but I'm happy with what I have. Thanks for the help above guys!:)

I'm ready to scroll, now I need a project, hmm. Anyone see the roses on LJ on Valentines day? They were cool

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Sorry for the late post, but I didn't have a scroll saw before February 1 and didn't know a thing about them. Still don't but am learning slowly. I ordered the upgrade blade blocks, early this month, I also ordered a manual. I was told there were ten in stock before I ordered mine. They got here in a week. The manual covers such things as mounting a blade in the old blocks and the manual is based entirely on the old machine There are exploded diagrams and parts lists for model 555220 (Mark V mounted) and 555272 (Stand mounted, with motor). Even tell how many clicks to turn the tension nob according to the blade choice.

I got manual no. 877087 titled "Old Scroll Saw Packet" So I guess there is also a manual for the newer saw.

The new blade blocks come with their own instruction paper and two exploded diagrams. They also had ten of these in stock when I called.

So did you get the upgraded guide blocks or the upgrade kit? The kit comes with a new tension lever adjustment which replaces the black knob on the back you have now. It also comes with a clear plastic hood that flips up and down and replaces you metal one. Of course the replacement guide blocks themselves as well. In this "new" upgrade kit you can bring an older machine up to 1994 standards

[quote="mrhart"]So did you get the upgraded guide blocks or the upgrade kit? The kit comes with a new tension lever adjustment which replaces the black knob on the back you have now. It also comes with a clear plastic hood that flips up and down and replaces you metal one. Of course the replacement guide blocks themselves as well. In this "new" upgrade kit you can bring an older machine up to 1994 standards ]

Just bought the blade blocks complete with the quick release. I can't understand the need for a clear plastic hood, and was happy with the clicker tension. Now (in the future) I am going to try to buy a new hold-down without the whole kit.. The new hold down contains the tube that blows away top dust. This seem to me to be better than the old tube. It kind gets in the way of both the hood and a released top blade block, but I'm slowly learning how to finagle and adjust my way around it.

I've so far done maintenance of cleaning the machine, and putting 2 drops of 30W oil into the air pump. It immediately increased air flow. Today I waxed the whole machine for the second time. The patina is now starting to improve. There's actually some shine to the frame and the table is slick.

After seeing both, I think you could easily make a new tube. The material could be aluminum tubing or even copper with the end crimped. It ools like 1/8 maybe. I could measure tomorrow and take a pic for you if you want.

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Much better.

I don't care for the plastic hood but it appears to be functional.

You say the kit brings you up to 1994 standard - which is?

Much better.

I don't care for the plastic hood but it appears to be functional.

You say the kit brings you up to 1994 standard - which is?[/quote]

about 20 years old.......