I BOX review of sorts (spoiler alert)

[dusty]

I understand the left/right reversibility that makes the 'front' side the 'back' side, but since only one side would be 'functional', any front/back dimensional variation of the fingers is moot.

It is obvious to me that you and I work differently.

I discovered this anomaly in my rig because I was using the back side for the work piece and measuring the finger plates on the front side.

[dusty]

I understand the left/right reversibility that makes the 'front' side the 'back' side, but since only one side would be 'functional', any front/back dimensional variation of the fingers is moot.

It is obvious to me that you and I work differently.

I discovered this anomaly in my rig because I was using the back side for the work piece and measuring the finger plates on the front side while believing that the finger plates were equal distance apart on both sides. But they are not.

[dusty]

I understand the left/right reversibility that makes the 'front' side the 'back' side, but since only one side would be 'functional', any front/back dimensional variation of the fingers is moot.

It is obvious to me that you and I work differently.

I discovered this anomaly in my rig because I was using the back side for the work piece and measuring the finger plates on the front side while believing that the finger plates were equal distance apart on both sides. But they are not and I do not understand why.

[jsburger]

I understand the left/right reversibility that makes the 'front' side the 'back' side, but since only one side would be 'functional', any front/back dimensional variation of the fingers is moot.

Kiss calibrate.

[JPG]

I understand the left/right reversibility that makes the 'front' side the 'back' side, but since only one side would be 'functional', any front/back dimensional variation of the fingers is moot.

Kiss calibrate.

Only one 'side' is functional.

What the 'other side' is/does is not relevant.

Now if one desires to 'assume' equivalence, be prepared for confusion.

Assuming things is precipitous.

As for why the two sides are not the same, parts tolerances(size/flatness...).

[reible]

While there is no need for the side to match I got mine out again and checked what difference I see, it is half of what Dusty sees, .007". Keep in mind that if there were a reason then .007" or .014" would be a lot but since everything is done on the one side the back/other side is not relevant.

Now I have previous played with my jig as well and mounted it back wards, the knob still to the left and the left miter slot used but with the wood sitting towards me. I thought that might allow a better visual and while it did it wasn't worth the effort. I did cut one set of joints this way before I switched back to the normal way. In this case I did use the "other" side of the parts but didn't see any difference in how the cuts went. I just did the alignment on the wood side and it all worked out.

Had Dusty not measured his I wouldn't have know they were different and now that I do know it means nothing to me as it makes no difference to how I set up and use the jig.

Ed

[dusty]

I agree. It makes no difference...so long as you do not try to use both sides during any particular setup.

If in left tilt configuration (as for Shopsmith), you will be using only the pin plates on the far side of the jig.

Those pin plates on the near side are there just for discussion. Same goes if you are set up for right tilt configuration. You use only the pin plates on the far side of the jig.

Don't rely on the pin plates on the near side of the jig for measurements. Only use those pin plates that are located on the side where you place the work piece that you are cutting.

I have replacement pin plates coming from Incra. When they do arrive, this may become a mute point. Mark (Incra CS) seemed to believe that any differences should be negligible.

[JPG]

Methinks thee has narrower bounds than Mark for 'negligible'.

[dusty]

So for all of you who own and use this ibox, what do you think of the results? Perfect joints, all the time? Worth the money?

"Perfect Joints All the Time"??? No way. This jig must be setup and used according to the instructions. If that is done, good joints are probable but not guaranteed. Some 'skill and cunning' is still required.

I think "No way" is not really the correct answer. Yes there is a learning curve with this jig. Some individuals may find it steeper than others. It has a number of adjustments and one has to understand what each one does and the relationship between them. Each one affects the others.

Once you get it dialed in for a particular width and don't change anything it will cut perfect joints every time for that width. That is my experience anyhow. The blades you use will make a difference. Right now I am using a set of Forrest box joint blades that cut 1/4" or 3/8" joints. They have off set carbide teeth so depending on the way you stack them on the arbor it changes the width of the cut. There are no shims involved. They are dead on every time. So if the I-Box is set up for perfect 1/4" joints and you don't touch it you get perfect joints every time you put the blade set on the saw.

If you use a stacked dado set and use shims unless you put the exact same shims in even a thou will make a difference in the fit.

Skill is always required for a perfect anything.

OKAY, John. I am throwing in the towel. I have found that It is possible to cut near perfect box joints every time. The I-Box is the result of some fantastic engineering and manufacturing. Getting to this point has been a bit more than learning what each knob (adjustment) does. Perfect joints require a bit of finesse that not everyone comes by naturally. It took me several attempts to get the feel for proper setup.

There is also a requirement to use the correct blades if you expect "perfect joints". While it is possible to cut reasonably good box joints with a standard stacking dado set, the special box joint blades make a big difference. I got a chance at some hands on practice at the local Woodcraft store. Now I am waiting for my blade bset to arrive.

Moving the I-Box over to my router table is going to be another task I had not anticipated. I need miter track on the router table that I do not have. There is no way that I am goping to buy another router table. I will make the one I have work somehow.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rtable.htm

[dusty]

So for all of you who own and use this ibox, what do you think of the results? Perfect joints, all the time? Worth the money?

Once you get it dialed in for a particular width and don't change anything it will cut perfect joints every time for that width. That is my experience anyhow. The blades you use will make a difference. Right now I am using a set of Forrest box joint blades that cut 1/4" or 3/8" joints. They have off set carbide teeth so depending on the way you stack them on the arbor it changes the width of the cut. There are no shims involved. They are dead on every time. So if the I-Box is set up for perfect 1/4" joints and you don't touch it you get perfect joints every time you put the blade set on the saw.

Will your Forrest box joint blades fit on the 1 1/4" arbor or are you using the dado arbor?