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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:30 pm
by JPG
edward wrote:Bill's point, as I understand it, is that a C1 bearing compensates for a problem with the single-bearing quills. You can buy a double-bearing quill with C3 bearings and it'll work famously. But single-bearing quills have a drift (right word?) that makes them less precise, which the C1 corrects because it is beyond the standard.
For me it boils down to $$ (I bought an old SS and fixed her up because I can't afford anythign else) and time (I'm sick of waiting to use this thing). Maybe I'll get the $10 bearing, and if I become dissatisfied, give Bill a call.
Sorry I'm thinking out loud here. After almost 200 posts, I've grown oddly familiar with this thread.
As has already been pointed out, YOU CREATED A GIANT! YOUR thinking makes sense to me. Hope the C3 works out for you! At least you will have prior replacement experience IF you must replace it soon.
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:41 pm
by bucksaw
JPG40504 wrote:Your upper left refers to the entire picture, my upper left was referring to the relay. Is this 'upper left' now?
[ATTACH]3588[/ATTACH]
Sorry about focus, best I could taking pix of your pix off lcd screen.
This screw was put there for a reason. I assume it is to hold the RELAY COVER on(not cover it up/insulate it). Try taking the screw loose and see if the relay innards are suddenly accessable. Look for whatever returns the movable contacts back to OPEN position. My thinking is to try and increase the spring tension so as to MAYBE solve the 'clicking' described elsewhere.
BTW see post #119!
P.S. changed 'closed' to 'OPEN'.
I played around with my old relay tonight. I cut off a very short piece of the spring that sets the tension in the relay and re-attached it. Relay works in all positions now with no chatter. Looks like if your careful a relay that chatters during run can be fixed. I imagine it would be possible to buy a new spring at your local Ace Hardware. I'm leaving the old relay on the motor and keeping the new one as a spare.
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:48 pm
by JPG
I am curious if the spring was an extension or compression spring? I am thinking 'extension'. You INCREASED the tension.
Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:02 pm
by bucksaw
JPG40504 wrote: I am curious if the spring was an extension or compression spring? I am thinking 'extension'. You INCREASED the tension.
Extension. By cutting off a short piece I was increasing the tension. If I get around to it I'll take a picture of the innards.
Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:34 pm
by wlhayesmfs
Edward your person did not make since to me on the bearing from what I know and was told. So went to one that I believe as an expect on rebuilding ER's and MKV like Bill Mayo and that is Skip. And his reply was as follows
The C" stands for clearance. C1 is a close tolerance bearing such as used
in machine spindles. C3 is what is commonly called a "motor grade"
bearing. They are looser fit to allow for the heat expansion in a motor
environment.
So I guess it depends on how close you want the tolerance or play in shaft and bearing.
Thanks
Bill
quill spring unwound
Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 8:31 pm
by riddler
Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum and fear I have already made a critical mistake in a rushed attempt to improve the quill retraction performance (my recently acquired goldie had a stiff quill action). I had just finished cleaning the quill teeth by fulling extending the quill when it disengaged from the pinion (I apparently backed the quill retaining set screw out too far).
The sound of the spring unwinding was a real bummer. In short, what do I do now? Thanks and I've already chalked it up to lessons learned.
Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 11:08 pm
by peterm
I think you just remove the quill and then turn the handle one and a half full turns cockwise to recompress the spring. Hold the handle and reinsert the quill. The spring will now pull the quill in. Use the handle to restrain it so it goes in without a bang. Here is a much better answer, found after writing the above:
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... #post40994
EDIT:I was reinstalling a quill with unwound spring today and found that 3 turns were necessary on this 195? vintage model 500 to cock the spring.
also helpful
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:34 am
by fiatben
go watch the Sawdust session on fixing the quill at
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... rn_Pt4.htm
Between the video and the link posted by Dartmouth, you should have an easy time resetting the spring.
If not, we're all here just waiting to have a say.
Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:12 pm
by riddler
Thanks guys. Because the spring disengaged from the wind screw I had to disassemble the quill feed mechanism--fairly simple once I could see what was going on inside. Its all hooked up and tensioned properly. Now that I have taken things apart and demystified them I am looking forward to better understanding other parts of the machine. Its great for this newbie to know there is a lifeline out there if I get into something I don't entirely understand.
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:39 pm
by russsaw