Shopsmith Forums

Charlese, around my shipyard we had a 7" angle grinder used with coarse resin back sanding discs for rough shaping on large areas and smaller ones like your 4 1/2" for "finer" work. They are what we called mini-grinders.

:-)

Thanks, Paul! Now I know! (mini)
The 4 1/2" angle grinder seemed big for my work. With it - ground off 1" of walnut in short order. Even with using the fine disk. http://kutzall.com/collections/sanding- ... 2-diameter

Note to algale! Don't use such a grinder indoors. The amount of flying wood dust is so large as to be almost unbelievable. Don't ask how I know.

Be sure to clamp down the deck piece before grinding. Recommend grinding the bottom first than sanding the top.

A little progress.

Before:


After:

The thwart/yoke (this canoe only has one) has its first and second coat of epoxy.
The wood is Sapele (matches the seats) cut on the Shopsmith band saw. The scoop around the neck should be shaped with a spokeshave, which I don't have. Care to guess how I did it using Shopsmith equipment?

algale wrote:The thwart/yoke (this canoe only has one) has its first and second coat of epoxy.

IMG_2512.JPG

IMG_2515.JPG

IMG_2509.JPG

The wood is Sapele (matches the seats) cut on the Shopsmith band saw. The scoop around the neck should be shaped with a spokeshave, which I don't have. Care to guess how I did it using Shopsmith equipment?

Quill mounted drum sander?

Absolutely beautiful!

Very nice Al.
I guess I might have done it on the top end of the belt sander.
(I keep it in the vertical position)

I'm going to guess drum sander with the table tilted for roughing, and then the edges blended in freehand.

Shipwright nailed it. The yoke's scoop was done freehand on the top of the Shopsmith belt sander in vertical position with an 80 grit Shopsmith G2 belt that I picked up at Lowes a while back. Just went at it until it looked pleasing to the eye and felt comfortable on the neck/shoulders.

Almost forgot to add the name/vanity plate.
You thought maybe I would put a different name on her?

algale wrote:The thwart/yoke (this canoe only has one) has its first and second coat of epoxy.

IMG_2512.JPG

IMG_2515.JPG

IMG_2509.JPG

The wood is Sapele (matches the seats) cut on the Shopsmith band saw. The scoop around the neck should be shaped with a spokeshave, which I don't have. Care to guess how I did it using Shopsmith equipment?

Al,

Just out of curiosity, how heavy is the canoe? The yoke is designed to be able to pick up the canoe and carry it on your shoulders as you know. Is that actually possible or is your canoe too heavy to carry any distance?

I was stationed in Quebec Canada at CFB Bagotville with the Air Force from 1980-1984. I hunted moose with a Canadian friend every year and even went back every year when I returned to the States until the first Gulf war in 1990. We had a 14" Cedar and canvas canoe that was hand built by the Tremble brothers in Jonquiere Quebec. It was truly made to portage, very light. The portage yoke was thinner and wider than yours and made from maple as were the seats. It was also scooped out front to back to match the curvature of the shoulders and had a notch in the curve to accommodate the spine. The seats were caned just like yours and the top side rails were Mahogany. We spent 30 days in the bush every year and I portaged that canoe more times than I care to think in 9 years.

You should be very proud of your work. That canoe is absolutely gorgeous.