Shopsmith Forums

I may have discovered another clue. If I pinch the blade between my left thumb and forefinger and then pull the blade through with my right hand, I can feel irregularities.

A thorough visual inspection of those irregular spots indicate a slight shiney spot. Visual inspection along with feeling that location, I detect a very slight bend. I suppose it is possible that the rough cut is created by this "high spot".

I have a new blade ordered. When it arrives, we'll know for sure.

dusty wrote:I may have discovered another clue. If I pinch the blade between my left thumb and forefinger and then pull the blade through with my right hand, I can feel irregularities.

A thorough visual inspection of those spots indicate a slight shiney spot. Visual inspection along with feeling that location, I detect a slight bend.

Twisted at the bend(s?).

JPG40504 wrote:Twisted at the bend(s?).

Is that a prognosis or a question?

The blade does not seem/feel as though it is twisted. Just a slight kink. I don't even know if this is indicative of a problem. It is just an irregularity to touch/feel.

dusty wrote:Is that a prognosis or a question?

The blade does not seem/feel as though it is twisted. Just a slight kink. I don't even know if this is indicative of a problem. It is just an irregularity to touch/feel.

Both.

A positive answer to the question would validate the prognosis.

JPG40504 wrote:Twisted at the bend(s?).

No, I don't think it is twisted. Just a very small kink.

A kink that I may have caused. When I am working on the band saw and have a blade removed, I often stretch it over my jointer (end to end). I likely won't do that anymore.

Dusty, band saw blades are best stored in a coil.

dusty wrote:No, I don't think it is twisted. Just a very small kink.

A kink that I may have caused. When I am working on the band saw and have a blade removed, I often stretch it over my jointer (end to end). I likely won't do that anymore.

Dusty: I used to fight to coil bandsaw blades into a circle. Then, one day on the http://www.woodmizer.com site they showed a different way to do it.

Put your gloves on and grab blade on each side teeth down. walk up to work bench or anything below your waist. keep walking one part of blade is hooked under bench the other end is pushing against your belly. All of a sudden the blade is in a nice coil.............slickest deal i have seen for blades.....

dusty wrote:OKAY. Last self imposed test cut. The fence has been adjusted for drift, the feather board is in place, speed is at 900 rpm, blade tension has been verified (no change).

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Wholly moly, shades of harmonics.

That looks like a 1/2 or 5/8, 3 tpi resaw b.

Do you have a 1/4, variable you could try?

It is said that a large resaw with few teeth sets up "harmonics" (might be my word, don't remember if that was the one used) especially in thicker stock. The variable-tooth blade is meant to eliminate that (also helps a bit cleaning the kerf).

If you want a really want a clean cut- one you have to hold up to the light to see any saw marks- try a 1/4, variable Hi-Count (16?- forgot what is available), slightly over tensioned (No more than one mark) with a very slow feed rate. The slow rate is more than compensated for by the no sanding cut.
Do Noy Force the feed.

dusty wrote:...
When I finish a "resaw cut", if I turn the Mark V off immediately, I can hear what a call a hum that slowly dissipates. ....

The upper bearing, coming to a gradual stop.
Good news-- the bearing is good.
Bad news-- its adjustment isn't.