JPG40504 wrote:The distance from the right slot to the blade.
If the fence/floating table are not moved between second setup piece dado and the first sled dado cut, the sled left edge to dado(blade) dimension will be the same as the setup piece left edge to right dado(slot) dimension. i.e. the sled dado(cut) will be half the miter slot separation distance closer to the sled left edge.
Warning: Excessive thinking about this can lead to headaches!:D
P.S. BTW only the right setup piece dado/runner is 'necessary'. The left one is not actually used when cutting the sled dadoes.
You are right on with the post. Even to the part about not needing the one runner. I think the exta runner does help with the initial testing so I do it anyway.
Ed in Tampa wrote:Does not this method assume that the saw blade is exactly in the middle of the two miter slots? That may or may not be the case with the Shopsmith.
There is no relationship given for where the blade is. If you have a preference then the planning for that has to be taken into account before hand. Depending on the location of the table to blade will become the final location for the blade and thus the cut.
I made no assumption as to middle or center lines.
algale wrote:The goal is to cut two dados in a sled bottom with the distance between the dados exactly the same width apart as the two miter slots.
That being one could theoretically accomplish this by creating a sled bottom of the desired size and attaching a back fence The entire sled/fence could then be clamped/bolted to the face of the miter gauge face. With the miter gauge in the right hand slot, cut a dado in the sled bottom , and then move the miter gauge (with sled/fence still attached) to the left miter gauge. By definition the two dados will have to be the same distance apart as the miter slots.
You are quite right one could do this with a miter gauge at least as far as thinking stages about how to do this. There is a flaw in actually trying to do this with a miter gauge. I'll let you all think on this for a while and if it is not clear I can do another sketch to help you understand.
reible wrote:You are quite right one could do this with a miter gauge at least as far as thinking stages about how to do this. There is a flaw in actually trying to do this with a miter gauge. I'll let you all think on this for a while and if it is not clear I can do another sketch to help you understand.
Ed
If you have a deep sled, the miter gauge's bar might not be long enough; but beyond that I'm at a loss. Sketch away!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
[quote="algale"]If you have a deep sled, the miter gauge's bar might not be long enough]
Sounds like you have the idea. A sled can easily be deeper then the miter gauge working range. You can take a hunk of plywood and experiment were you run out of stability, my guess without thinking much about it is around 12" and maybe as far as 15" where a sled can be 20-24 inches deep.
It is always good to experiment with things on your own, get a good feel for your equipment and decide how you want to do a task. There are many many ways to accomplish things and I often use different methods just to check out how they compare. Just make sure you are going to be safe during the procedure you use, the rest is just having fun woodworking.
The other way to use the miter gauge to make a quick version of this jig is to bolt a board to the face of the miter gauge and use it exactly the way Ed uses his fancy gauge. Choose either the right or left slot, slip the miter gauge in with board attached and set the rip fence to touch the board, then remove miter gauge. Cut your dado, then insert gauge in other slot and reset the fence to touch the board, remove the gauge and cut your second dado.
There are almost always are ways to simplify an idea but the genius is in coming up with the original idea - like what Ed did.
Or, just use the miter gauge stop rod(and a board)!;)
Or even the sled base itself with the stop rod.
Fence still required!!! Miter gauge etc. only used for setting the fence.
I just might have to make a new sled myself!:eek:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Ed,
My only point of confusion is position of the fence when making the jig. You said "Once you have decided where the center of the sled is you will add the rip fence that far away." Not sure exactly what you mean by that, or at least having trouble visualizing it.
major_bob wrote:Ed,
My only point of confusion is position of the fence when making the jig. You said "Once you have decided where the center of the sled is you will add the rip fence that far away." Not sure exactly what you mean by that, or at least having trouble visualizing it.
bob
I'll try to get a few more details posted since this seems a to be a point of confusion. I was trying not to get to that level of detail but it seems this might be of help to some. Not sure when I'll get this done but I will try later tonight.
major_bob wrote:Ed,
My only point of confusion is position of the fence when making the jig. You said "Once you have decided where the center of the sled is you will add the rip fence that far away." Not sure exactly what you mean by that, or at least having trouble visualizing it.
bob
How big is your sled and where do you want the runners with respect to the edge of the sled.
The jig cannot be sized for a specific application without knowing those two answers. All the jig really does is position the fence that prescribed distance away from the left runner and then 7" further away for the second runner.
NOTE: Assuming that all of this is for use on the Shopsmith Main Table.
Sorry for horning in here. I guess this question was really directed to Ed.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
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