Glue Up Question

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 5:29 pm

shipwright wrote:Terry, actually liquid hide glue would give you better open time in that case and would be my choice. You will be clamping anyway and don't need the fast tack qualities of hot hide glue. BTW, this is still available.

I was hoping it was. I need to get my butt in gear.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:49 pm

Terry, If you build one let me know. I may make you one anyway, if it's gone by then.

Paul M

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:58 pm

Look for the blog on LJ. I'll be blogging it there as I am going to endeavor to use hand tools on the build. I may cheat a bit and use my SS Jointer to make short work of some of the more arduous tasks like flattening off numerous 2 x 4's I'll also be cheating on any drilling as I don't have a brace yet. But the remainder I hope to use all hand tools including the saw work and final dimensioning/flattening.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:23 pm

Why not try the plywood bench layup? It is immensely strong and really easy.

Paul M

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:28 pm

I can only add one thing about using liquid hide glue and that is to make sure it's fresh. Titebond puts dates on their products. If in doubt, do a test glue-up on scrap wood and test for strength.

On another note about glue, earlier I said I like Elmer's Glue All. This afternoon I received the Woodcraft Magazine (it's my last issue I think and I'm not renewing even though it's relatively inexpensive). Well, there's an article on wood glues that says Elmers is good for crafts, but not ideal for woodworking. Maybe that's part of the reason I'm not renewing. From my experience, it's a great glue. I have a bowl that was turned in the 1950s of four thicknesses of poplar that were glued together with white glue. Seems to me that some experts aren't so expert.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 7:28 pm

Well, since I'm still in the planning stages, I may. It really boils down to cost for me. (And work ability with hand tools). I'm not a big fan of using hand tools on manufactured woods, the glue is really hard on the edges.

trainguytom · Post by **trainguytom** » Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:58 pm

terrydowning wrote:My list of projects and things to try just keeps growing and growing.

Paul, One of the projects on my list is a work bench build. I pan on using your V8 Degree wagon vise and leg vise. Now I'm wondering would HHG be a good choice of glue for gluing up the top? I'm planning on a bench similar to Paul Seller's Traditional English bench.

I have to believe that hide glue is a good choice for the bench. Consider the number of workbenches still around from the 1800's & furniture as well that manages to stay stuck together. None of the common glues of today existed back then, it was all hide glue. It has stood the test of time. That's for sure.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:44 am

As stated here earlier, Hide glue is not available just anywhere. I HAD to go to WC yesterday to get it. Finish the planes today I hope and post a pic afterwards.
Thanks for the help guys. I will shelac and wax and let the kids eat em.

jimthej · Post by **jimthej** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:01 pm

I have tried the titebond hide glue. Most bottles I came across, even on Amazon were already out of date or nearly so.
My source now is http://oldbrownglue.com/ real nice folks.

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:04 pm

You won't find better liquid hide glue than Old Brown. Keep it in the fridge and it will outlast the conservative "use by" date on the bottle.

Paul M

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