Shopsmith Forums

Double wrap the cheap cut of steak, in vacuum pack, place in a large drum, with a couple ounces of C4, and set the C4 off. Yes, it DID tenderize the steak.

They also put the steak, wrapped like above, in a clothes dryer, set just to tumble. With 100, 1 inch ball bearings. For 12 hours, with cold air blown in at the lint catcher. This one ALSO tenderized the steak.

Now, the real reason I'm here. All my goodies came in from Tom. With the exception of no M2 socket, (I told him I didn't need it) and a REAL OLD looking tailstock, (This one doesn't have that rib that runs top to bottom, unlike any I've ever seen. It IS an ER part, because it has the ground groove for the ext table leg, and the removable M2 taper socket. The E model just has 2 screws and wingnuts to mount the aluminum leg, and the M2 socket is cast and machined in.)

OK, the screw I was thinking about using, won't work, unless I drill out the tiebar. (But, I knew that.) I have a "table raising crank," with the same thread, and the thread is long enough. Un(?)fortunately, this crank has a slight bend, right in the middle of the threads. If I bolt the tiebar and tailstock to the hinge with that crank, it gets tight to turn, and also pulls everything together.

I won't need to drill out anything. I've got 2 more table raising cranks, so I'm fine.

JPG, as Hannibal Smith says, "I love it when a plan comes together!" Thanks for talking me off the ledge!

steve

I just noticed ONE problem. the crank's handle is straight up at the tightest spot. Not a biggie, this is the type with the steel threaded rod, with an aluminum handle attached with a roll-pin. I'll just drive out the roll-pin, and install it facing down. I still may put a nut on the tiebar end, to see if I can get some more compression.

steve

skou wrote: I have a "table raising crank," the same thread, and the thread is long enough. Un(?)fortunately, this crank has a slight bend, right in the middle of the threads.
steve

One of my cranks was bent like that, I fixed it by screwing it in till it started to bind and then tapped it with a mallet till it was straight. The metal is quite soft and will bend easily.

Ron, that slight bend is going to work to my advantage, since it is putting pressure on the join area.

steve

skou wrote:Ron, that slight bend is going to work to my advantage, since it is putting pressure on the join area.

steve

By cocking the attached pieces.

You're right. I may follow Ron's advice, straighten it, and take the crank to my brother's, since he (I think) has a tap and die set, with adjustable dies.

I may only cut the threads deeper, on the crank half of the threads, because getting a nut inside the hinge will be difficult, and the nut won't fit flat.

Oh, this new tailstock is about 2 threads thinner. Tightens up the same, so it's probably exactly 2 threads thinner.

steve

So, you are going to run the tap onto the crank threads a ways, adjust the die 'tighter' then run the die further onto the crank shaft?


Think Again!;)





That will work if the die is openable like on a pipe threader which are thusly made so as to allow removing the die without retracting the die from the pipe.





I think 'deeper' threads the entire length will work anyway! Tie bar positioning tis the critical 'detail'.