Page 3 of 7
Pictures and Updates 3
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:27 am
by pds0006
Inconceivable!
4:30 AM, this is the new box about to get fired back up. I haven't been running it unless I was awake and at least in the house because A - I don't have a ton of experience with chargers/electrolysis and B - the charger was making intermittent popping sounds. Not sure what that means but I wasn't taking the chance.
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After rotating the tubes to get the tops handled. I ran a finger over the tubes and this shot shows that the rust just kind of sloughs off. What it also shows is that one tube has apparently had no electrolytic reaction and I'm not sure why.
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New and old capacitors for the motor.
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Under the heading of possible upgrades I got a quill feed hub from a 10ER, one of the 3 handle setups. It's got a set screw on it but like the Mark V the handle holes are through and presumably that mean the hub can lock on the quill feed. I plan to use it on the right side in vertical drill press mode; does anyone have experience doing this? I also saw this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281274173746?ss ... 1423.l2649
Is this off of a Mark V or a 10ER?
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:59 am
by idcook
Wonderful to see your little guy involved with the work to restore this greenie.
An experience both invaluable and that he’ll likely always cherish for years to come.
Thanks for posting the pics.
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:46 am
by JPG
I just thought you did not need the extra expense of a motor to add to the other stuff going on at this time. No question that the 'larger' one would be an improvement.
Bearings are relatively easy to replace once you acquire a bearing puller.
As for the charger, is it a dumb charger, or is it trying to shut down etc.
That pix is of a Mark 5/V/7 hub. Another
source.
Note the price!
The quill shaft on a 10 E/ER is larger than the M5/V/7 shaft(3/4 vs 5/8?). A bushing can be inserted into the 10 E/ER hub to make it fit a M5/V/7.
Only one of the handles need be used to clamp the hub. The bushing needs to be drilled to allow the screw/handle to pass through. I like the separate set screw! That is why I have done the bushing bit already.
JPW will be more effective in preventing the white alox than 'covering up'.
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 11:11 pm
by pds0006
I don't need the expense. However, that was based on an assumed $400 price tag and the feeling the current motor just needed the capacitor. Between hearing the bearing squeal and Bill's great service I changed my mind. I figure it's a one time upgrade and it ensures we'll have good performance for years to come.
I've got the puller and I know there are threads on here about returning a motor so a project for the future. Any uses for a rebuilt motor outside of the headstock?
It's a dumb charger. Looks like the brackets I used to hold had enough rust on that side to prevent the flow. I removed the other tube and let it cook alone, no problems then.
Good tip on the bushing. Once I get the SS back up and running I'll drill out the holes.
Wax has kept the ways safe for a decade so I'll remember to add it to everything else once this is fixed.
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 11:17 pm
by JPG
Although I have not followed through and done it (yet), I think the SS motor with the variable pulley(floating sheave etc.) is a good 'variable' speed power source. By varying belt tension/length the floating sheave will change belt speed. Funky motor mounting, but not insurmountable.
I have mentioned this before, and Bill Mayo stated he has done this.
Buncha work, but doable.
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:24 pm
by idcook
pds0006 wrote:Bill, we're going for somewhere beyond serviceable but perhaps not quite as polished (literally) as mickyd's. There are some items like the tables that I don't expect to get pristine and the chrome I most likely won't take to a full shine. But I've never seen the paint intact in my life and that has contributed to the rusting.
JPG, good eye on the parts. I'd gone to the double quill bearing a few years ago and if I recall correctly the day my father brought it to me I both broke the tie bar and the coupler to the jointer. So multiple replacements and part of my goal here is to get as much of the external back to stock as possible. Speed control handle, find a period accurate replacement to the black handle, and the original greenie paint job. Internally I want to get oil holes on the sheaves because you're right, they aren't there, and one of the items I found during tear down was that the sheaves were pretty well gummed up from lack of maintenance.
Not sure you’]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quill-Feed-Leve ... 4d1983cb64[/url]
Just in case:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quill-Feed-Leve ... 4d1983c93e
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quill-Feed-Leve ... 1c3d2bccef
Hey… there’s even a full set…
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Tool- ... 20e0b74632
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:21 pm
by JPG
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:49 pm
by idcook
Stubbier indeed.
Interesting animal this Shopsmith. Lots of little details to consider as ones’ addiction grows.
Thanks for the correction JPG.
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:53 pm
by JPG
idcook wrote:Stubbier indeed.
Interesting animal this Shopsmith. Lots of little details to consider as ones’ addiction grows.
Thanks for the correction JPG.
The fatter, stubbier ones fit my hand better, especially when I need to rotate them to tighten in place.
Week 4a
Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:20 pm
by pds0006
idcook, I am still looking; thanks for looking out for me. That triple set would be perfect but I'm really looking to keep them all the stubby red ones like JPG pointed out.
I managed to get the bench tubes through electrolysis before the weather set in. I thought myself clever to cut out some circles and use them to put rebar in the tubes to remove any rust there. I realized that I needed to do something to clear that stuff out as well so I added some other circles and used the setup as a ramrod. Chucked up the rebar and ran steel wool, a cleaning cloth and then JPW through the tubes. Looks pretty good in that last picture.
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