Shopsmith Forums

Ed in Tampa wrote:I totally agree a splitter or riving knife minimizes if not totally eliminates the need for any other measures. In fact I think a short fence adds to the risk of the board pivoting on the back of the fence and into the blade.

I want as long as fence as I can get. I would not mind a fence twice the length of the board half in front of the blade and half behind. If everything is aligned and a riving knife in in place there is little to no chance of kick back.

Would making the short fence thicker reduce this concern in your mind.

I cut up a bunch of scrap 3/4" MDF trying to check this out and I had not even one kickback or even a hint of the cutoff touching the blade so as to invite a kickback.

But then I don't have kick backs with the Shopsmith fence because of the way I use my push block. I push the work piece ALL THE WAY past the blade before I relinquish control. Many times, on narrow pieces, I actually cut my push block.

dusty wrote: . . . I push the work piece ALL THE WAY past the blade before I relinquish control. . . .

There is another way?????

JPG40504 wrote:Not sure I would be so adamant saying that. Murphy might get even.

I agree if properly installed/adjusted tis greatly reduced.

Yeah you are right JPG Murphy has a way of making things sneak up on you bite you in the butt.

dusty wrote:Would making the short fence thicker reduce this concern in your mind.

I cut up a bunch of scrap 3/4" MDF trying to check this out and I had not even one kickback or even a hint of the cutoff touching the blade so as to invite a kickback.

But then I don't have kick backs with the Shopsmith fence because of the way I use my push block. I push the work piece ALL THE WAY past the blade before I relinquish control. Many times, on narrow pieces, I actually cut my push block.

Every kick I have ever experienced was approximately mid cut and without a splitter in place. I thought I had total control of the board but admittedly I wasn't thinking safety or mastering the wood. I was in a hurry and cutting a last piece or two before I cleaned up. Although I was standing to the side I did get to see the piece sail past. The blade gouge cut about 1/4 inch deep in a crescent shape. Which picked the board up and shot the leading edge like a rocket. I suspect I let the blade climb the blade. Although I have never caught myself allowing it ever before or after.

I did watch a buddy of mind pivot the board on the back of the fence so the leading edge of blade caught (I think) and spun the board around and threw it toward the rear of the saw. There was a huge bang with that one and I think everyone shut their eyes so I'm really not sure what happened.

Ed in Tampa wrote: . . .
I did watch a buddy of mind pivot the board on the back of the fence so the leading edge of blade caught (I think) and spun the board around and threw it toward the rear of the saw. There was a huge bang with that one and I think everyone shut their eyes so I'm really not sure what happened.

I am having great difficulty picturing the board being sent to the rear!

[quote="dusty"]I read a post the other day (on another forum) where the author was advocating a shorter rip fence claiming that it was safer to use. His opinion seems to be based on a belief that most kickbacks are caused during ripping when the work piece clears the back edge of the blade. At this point in time the work piece is pinched between the blade and a full length rip fence with nothing securing it. Thus a candidate for kickback. Relieve the pinch and "no kick back".

His solution is to use a short rip fence]


Seems 2 me a basic setup is fence and riving knife. I can't envision a danger with those both present (assuming common sense is engaged) even with a non-recommended short fence.
But I gotta say, I would not use such a setup.