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Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:27 pm
by reible
forrestb wrote:Please send me a PM. Stafford has said they can do it but it would be custom (sounds like $$$$).
I am willing to give it a try and get a quote. It would help with the price were I to ask for 10 or 20 (is that enough

)
I will wait a week before I contact their local distributor, so think about it if you will.
Thanks
Forrest
One might think that Shopsmith might be interested. That is something that is lacking from their router system..... Perhaps a call or email to someone there could happen???
I'd like to say I'm interested depending on the out come of the price.... if it were low enough I could go for two even.
BTW one thing that I don't recall mentioning is that I reduce the quill pressure by a bit more then 1 turn so it is easier to adjust then when fighting the full spring pressure.
It is simple to do, just pull the quill (just the one setscrew) then let it turn back and put the quill back in and adjust the setscrew.....
Ed
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 1:00 pm
by JPG
skou wrote:I've only seen 1 stop collar on a "10," and that was on the lathe toolrest base. (The part that went in the carriage.) And, I've only seen a couple.
steve
Where else?;) They do fit the main table posts.
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 1:03 pm
by JPG
reible wrote:One might think that Shopsmith might be interested. That is something that is lacking from their router system..... Perhaps a call or email to someone there could happen???
I'd like to say I'm interested depending on the out come of the price.... if it were low enough I could go for two even.
BTW one thing that I don't recall mentioning is that I reduce the quill pressure by a bit more then 1 turn so it is easier to adjust then when fighting the full spring pressure.
It is simple to do, just pull the quill (just the one setscrew) then let it turn back and put the quill back in and adjust the setscrew.....
Ed
Me too!!!!:)
I have sent a message to SS
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 1:25 pm
by forrestb
I think it is a good idea for SS to offer this item. I have asked Tech Support who I should contact about SS taking it over as a product line.
Anyone have a 'deep' contact there that I could contact?
Forrest
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 3:36 pm
by JPG
Call CS and ask for "Dave"!:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Seriously, ask Admin.

Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 4:12 pm
by admin
forrestb wrote:I think it is a good idea for SS to offer this item. I have asked Tech Support who I should contact about SS taking it over as a product line.
Anyone have a 'deep' contact there that I could contact?
Forrest
Your best option is to phone customer service and let them know you have a new product idea.
They have a release form you will need to complete before they are allowed to pass you to a 'deep' contact.
Thank you for the advice, Admin
Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 5:28 pm
by forrestb
I will call Technical Customer Service tomorrow.
Forrest
My fine adjustment approach
Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:47 pm
by STB
My current project is a round table with the center routed out and a decorative edge. A cove in the center and a bead at the outer edge of the cove. The table top is 7/8 in thick
I used the straight bit that was included with the mortising package to cut the round table top and to rout out the center.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_slotmortising.htm
I used shaping cutters to make the decorative edge profile.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/ms_shapingpackage.htm
So this was my solution (in Pictures) to the fine adjustment dilemma.
Note: the power head is laying on the bench when I took the pictures.(don't ask why )
[ATTACH]26170[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26171[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26172[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26173[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]26174[/ATTACH]
Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:12 pm
by charlese
Very nice work, Glenn!!:)
Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 2:04 am
by benush26
Forrest,
Would the following work?
Use a 2by12 clamped to the way tubes with a large hole bored to allow a stove bolt to pass through. Sink a nut into the 2by so that the stove bolt can thread into it.. Bore and split the 2by so it can be clamped to the way tubes (how you clamp it is up to you. And the drawing doesn't show the board split.
Insert the stove bolt, move the assembly so the top of the bolt presses against the headstock and clamp the jig tight. Loosen the head stock, thread the bolt up or down as needed for fine tuning, tighten the headstock and make your pass.
Forgive the crudeness of the drawing, but i have not the skill to make a threaded bolt, but the yellow piece (for highlighting) is the bolt and it is in horizontal mode(I'm too lazy to tilt the drawing 90 degrees)
[ATTACH]26180[/ATTACH]
Maybe it would not be stable enough, but I think it is simple enough make.
Anyway just a thought. And thanks to Science guy for the use of your mark V drawing
Be well,
Ben