Workbench advise, almost no pun intended

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charlese
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Post by charlese »

Hi Tim! I used 1/4" hardboard for the surface. Screwed it to the base with #6 FHWS, slightly recessed. NO GLUE! Urethane finish - 4 coats - then wax. The top is replaceable if it gets too messed up. Since I also use the router table surface for chiseling and glue-ups - this feature will unsubtly come in handy. So far after a couple of years of multiple uses there are some nicks, digs and re-urethane spots, in the corners, but the center surface is still good for routing. The table is about 3 feet by 2 1/2 ft.

After I bought the hardboard I set it on the base and fit the side boards to fit the extra height.

I used plywood rather than MDF for a base and had to rout out a space on the bottom of the table to accept the router. The router base stays mounted to the table and the motor comes out the bottom for use in the OPR, or the plunge base.

The photos show the table and some of it's uses.

P.S. don't be concerned about the appearance of a blockage just to the left of the router table. That is a rolling cabinet/stand with the planer and scroll saw on it. If needed, I can rout a long piece right out of the door. (three feet to the door)
Attachments
fold down router table.jpg
fold down router table.jpg (115.68 KiB) Viewed 13312 times
Glue up oak plugs.jpg
Glue up oak plugs.jpg (141.4 KiB) Viewed 13306 times
New Router Fence.jpg
New Router Fence.jpg (138.47 KiB) Viewed 13304 times
table up - storage below.jpg
table up - storage below.jpg (121.36 KiB) Viewed 13325 times
HPIM1695.jpg
HPIM1695.jpg (125.69 KiB) Viewed 13306 times
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
shydragon
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Post by shydragon »

OK, what is the last picture of? Some sort of track for the little ones?
Pat

Oregon

1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
charlese
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Post by charlese »

Pat - I had just meant the pic to show how the table is used for storage. However, those are the play blocks I made for my Daughter-in-law's school kids. Wanta see what they do with them? It tickled me!
Attachments
Kids Using blocks.jpg
Kids Using blocks.jpg (100.25 KiB) Viewed 13307 times
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
shydragon
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Post by shydragon »

Wow, Cool. Blocks are always great. I remember, a very long time ago, I would spend hours building things with blocks. It's nice to see, that even in this day and age, they are still enjoyed.
Pat

Oregon

1992 SS 510, 11" Bandsaw on power station, 4" jointer, Pro Planer, Incra Miter 2000, Incra Ultimate Fence Router Pkg, Grizzly 6" Parallelogram Jointer.
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timster68
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Post by timster68 »

charlese wrote:Hi Tim! I used 1/4" hardboard for the surface. Screwed it to the base with #6 FHWS, slightly recessed. NO GLUE! Urethane finish - 4 coats - then wax. The top is replaceable if it gets too messed up. Since I also use the router table surface for chiseling and glue-ups - this feature will unsubtly come in handy. So far after a couple of years of multiple uses there are some nicks, digs and re-urethane spots, in the corners, but the center surface is still good for routing. The table is about 3 feet by 2 1/2 ft.
Thanks - did you sand down each coat of urethane with a high grit sandpaper?
charlese
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Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:46 pm
Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

timster68 wrote:Thanks - did you sand down each coat of urethane with a high grit sandpaper?
Following the directions on the can of Varathane - I used 220 grit between coats.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Gene Howe
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Location: Snowflake, AZ

Bench and new to this forum

Post by Gene Howe »

Glad I finally found this forum. Been a SS user for 33 years.
Re: benches. Mine is 4'X8' on Rococo styled iron legs that I believe were the base for a machinst's bench in the early 1900s.
The top is made of 2 full sheets of MDF laminated and covered with fir lath strips. 3/4 X 2" oak was used for edging.
Why it's so darned big is the reason I need to replace the top. I do a lot of carcases and cut a good deal of plywood on the bench. 3/4 insulating foam provides adequate protection for the top.......mostly. A few times I have forgotten to reset my circ.saw blade depth.....ooops! The top has a few kerfs in it. Plus, I've let glue and epoxy dry on it and removal has left a few gouges that were filled with Bondo. And, consequently, it's less than truly flat in places.
I plan to discard the entire top and start over with the same base and another 2 sheets of MDF. This time, I'll use 3/4" red oak T&G flooring. Lumber liquidaters has utility grade for less than $2.00 bf. I'd rather use maple but, it's over twice the cost. AND, think I'll start using 1 1/2" foam!

Gene
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Gene,

I too am glad you found the forum. Welcome to this family of dedicated woodworkers. It is always nice to have a new person join and I hope you come with a lot of new ideas and criticisms.

It is also good to see that you are here in Arizona. Well, it is good from my point of view. As the number of Shopsmith owners grows the chance of developing some sort of "local" group of 'Smithys' increases. Maybe the day will come when we can have a gathering.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
charlese
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Location: Lancaster, CA

Post by charlese »

Hi Gene! Happy to have you aboard!

It sounds like, with your use of your bench, thicker foam is a good idea. Give some thought to laying down a sheet of hardboard as a surface. It will take a lot of abuse and can be replace a lot easier than heavier and more expensive wood.

Best Wishes!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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