Shopsmith Forums

It looks like the title here should be modified to glad I don't own a shopsmith mortise system??

I have the system, I've used the system, I have and issues early on with the system.......... but it does work for general use be it a little slower then a lot of us like.

How if I were faced with having to make 400 2-1/2 deep mortises would I go look at some ones dedicated machine just to keep my sanity.

I don't ever recall having to make that deep a mortise on anything I've built so I can not say if that is in the capacity of the shopsmith setup. With the short handle on the shopsmith doing hundreds of holes even if they were more like 1-1/2" would wear me out.

Since I do most of that sort of work with a router and have for a long while I don't often get out the shopsmith mortiser pkg. and do any work with it. I did how ever use it in the past and rather then try and duplicate what I have said in the past I'll post a few links to past discussions. No particular order:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodw ... -t840.html

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/begin ... 14084.html

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodw ... 15990.html

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/begin ... 13689.html

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... -t848.html

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/commu ... -t351.html

These are just ones I know I have posted to, a search might find more..

Now I'm glad I own a few shopsmiths. Being able to repair them yourself is a big plus, even better is that having a few assures you have no down time or at least very little down time. So be glad for what we have seems like a nice thing to end on.

Ed

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:

jsburger wrote:The bottom line is that you need some amount of clearance or you will overheat both the drill and the chisel. Once that happens they are ruined and no amount of sharpening will help.

I don't know but if they can I suspect the cost would be more than a new set.

After tempering, they would need to be reground to dimension. That would make them undersized.


Realize (IIUC) tempering makes then 'less brittle' from hardening. Getting them too hot just extends that process.

I guess it would be determined by the steel they were made of.

It is so good to have access to a forum where there are so many experts in so many different disciplines. I just marvel at the expertise.

JPG wrote:

jsburger wrote:

jsburger wrote:The bottom line is that you need some amount of clearance or you will overheat both the drill and the chisel. Once that happens they are ruined and no amount of sharpening will help.

I don't know but if they can I suspect the cost would be more than a new set.

After tempering, they would need to be reground to dimension. That would make them undersized.


Realize (IIUC) tempering makes then 'less brittle' from hardening. Getting them too hot just extends that process.

Tempering it would make it hard again, then ya anneal it to reduce the brittleness. It woodn't cost me much to heat it up, then quench it. Throw it in the oven for awhile for the annealing process.

Three terms often mis-understood.

Hardening - Heating often next to carbon and quenching quickly. Carbon creates case hardening.

Tempering - Reheating to a critical temperature to reduce brittleness.

Annealing - Reheating followed by a slow cool down. Material becomes softer/more ductile.