Shopsmith Forums

I am undoubtedly responsible for causing this confusion. The title that I put to this thread is misleading.

It would have been more appropriately titled:

What function is served by the Joint-Matic Bevel Miter Gauge (555461)?

or

Does the Bevel Miter Gauge (555461) have a purpose without the Joint-Matic?

pinkiewerewolf wrote:I'm a bit corn-fused (farm typing):D but why are we trying to make these cuts without tilting the table?
I apologize if I missed the explanation in previous post.

Hi Pinkie,
There may be more then one reason, but mostly, I think that the goal is to be able to cut bevels on boards that otherwise wood be too long to do on a tilting table saw.

Thanks Dusty and thanks Tim. I appreciate clearing that up for me.

a1gutterman wrote:Hi Pinkie,
There may be more then one reason, but mostly, I think that the goal is to be able to cut bevels on boards that otherwise wood be too long to do on a tilting table saw.

If the board is too long with a tilted table then it is going to be too long on the top side of the guage as well!

I obtained a set of instructions for the Bevel-Miter Gauge from Shopsmith. Once again Customer Service fulfills a need that might not be done by other companies.

After reading the instructions, I have concluded that Shopsmith had NO INTENTION for this device to be anything other than an attachment (jig) to be used with Joint-Matic.

Specifically, it allows one to dado, miter or spline bevel/miter cuts. The instructions specify that the pieces being used need to be cut to finished length and then mitered. Only then does one cut in dadoes or dovetails.

The instructions are detailed in determining the cut length depending on size of dovetail or size of spline.

CONCLUSION: It has no function other than to work with a Joint-Matic. One could probaly find a way to use it with any horizontal router.

I sure miss Reible. He would have put this to rest a long time ago. Why, because he was who he was - oh yeah, he also had a Joint-Matic. It sort of feels like no currently active forum member has one.

I wonder if Nick will mention or show the bevel-miter gauge in the May 10th sawdust session. Would be nice. Looks to be a good session anyway.

woodburner wrote:Are you cutting exceptionally long pieces of wood?
with the proper set-up (compound miter cut) you can use the SS with the table tilted to cut crown molding (I have done it). But I have a miter saw too, so it is more convenient for cutting this type of molding.

I ran into the same problem as the OP. It wasn't crown molding but baseboard. The piece was over 4'. I couldn't tilt the table because the wood hit the tubes.

navycop wrote:I ran into the same problem as the OP. It wasn't crown molding but baseboard. The piece was over 4'. I couldn't tilt the table because the wood hit the tubes.

With a piece as light weight as baseboard, couldn't you slide the table all the way to the right, tilt to 45 deg. insert 5 ft. connector tubes with a floating table (floating in the air), then cut the miter with the majority of the molding on the upper side of the blade? The miter gauge should hold the molding.

Really, however, it would be easier to use a miter box or a coping saw.

navycop wrote:I ran into the same problem as the OP. It wasn't crown molding but baseboard. The piece was over 4'. I couldn't tilt the table because the wood hit the tubes.

I don't understand the problem. I have done moulding in three for four different renovations and the Mark 5 works well for this. There is a length limitation but it is somewhere near the 8' mark]5404[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]5405[/ATTACH]

The Mark V, as setup in the 2nd photo, is an accident waiting to happen. There should be an extension table to the left of the cross cut sled and something needs to be done to prevent the cutoff from sliding down in to blade and being converted immediately into a dangerous projectile.

I offer it here as photo evidence only that you can set up at 45 degrees right and have clearance for long stock.

As Dusty illustrates and explains, longer then 4' boards are definitely doable. There are also methods available that will increase the cutting length. A Mark V can be placed at the end of a porch, loading dock, pickup bed, a platform-purposely-built-for-this-operation, etc., to accomodate the need. Necessity is the mother of invention. These methods may be a nuisance, but how often are they required? If you do require this set-up frequently, you will develop a means to do them. If, like I believe is the case for most of us, your need for this is infrequent, Chuck's post (#28) gives the proper answer.