Veneer Solid Wood

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masonsailor2
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by masonsailor2 »

I think the problem of dissimilar woods is less of an issue in a dry environment. A knife holder will certainly see some moisture and then it becomes a problem. Rather than use pine as the substrate think about other hardwoods which are less expensive than the maple but in the same hardness/stability zone as the maple. A good choice is European steamed Beech which is fairly inexpensive ( around 3-3.50/bd ft) and is about the same hardness as maple. I use it for drawers and sub structure because it is so dense and stable. It is also a beautiful wood in its own right.
Paul
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jsburger
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by jsburger »

ERLover wrote:
algale wrote:
jsburger wrote: So how does the fact that back then the wood was old growth effect this? How was the substrate sawn (quarter sawn)?
Good questions. I do not have the answers.
I would not think old growth/new growth if dried the same would not make a difference.
What would quarter sawn have to do with anything?? Other then the look of the grain? Ah, quarter sawn is more stable if I remember right, then flat sawn.
Old growth has much tighter growth rings. Think Baltic Birch and CDX plywood.

Quarter sawn is much more stable. The grain is vertical to the thickness of the board. The width of the board as a result does not expand near as much as a flat sawn board where the grain is mostly horizontal to the width of the board. Plus almost (virtually none) no cupping or twisting. Kind of like plywood but more expensive now. Of course in the old days there was no plywood.
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by ERLover »

John, I agree and some ignorance but always learning.
Knife edges, for chopping and slicing on a Chefs Knife I think it is a 15 or 12* edge, stays sharper longer but a bit more resistance on raw veggies, ect, for cooked and raw meat, it is 9 or 7*, cuts better but does not hold an edge as long. Just a tid bit of info if you spend any time in the prep work in the Kitchen. Then there is the Serrated Blade Knife, :eek: nothing but a fine toothed saw!!! :(
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jsburger
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by jsburger »

ERLover wrote:John, I agree and some ignorance but always learning.
Knife edges, for chopping and slicing on a Chefs Knife I think it is a 15 or 12* edge, stays sharper longer but a bit more resistance on raw veggies, ect, for cooked and raw meat, it is 9 or 7*, cuts better but does not hold an edge as long. Just a tid bit of info if you spend any time in the prep work in the Kitchen. Then there is the Serrated Blade Knife, :eek: nothing but a fine toothed saw!!! :(
You know what, I have broken down game in the field. The largest was a Mose in Quebec. I have no idea what the angle on the blade has to do with anything and I don't care. It was sharp and it worked.

FWIW, I cook every day for my wife. When we have soul food she cooks. My set of knives are kept sharp by me.

3* or 5* edge angle on a kitchen knife? :confused: Why is that a big deal with a cooking knife?
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by ERLover »

John, no argument here, just info, a sharp knife like any sharp tool is easier to use and last longer, and not going in to hardness, Rockwell Scale, ect.
Just giving info, in the kitchen knifes, I used to make some of my hunting knives, 63 RCK, the harder, sharper with work, but more brittle if twisted in a bone, ect, and broken.
I dont know what your point/argument is?
I was talking knifes in the kitchen, not the field. Most Kitchen knifes are about 54-59 Rockwell, makes sharping easier.
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jsburger
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by jsburger »

ERLover wrote:John, no argument here, just info, a sharp knife like any sharp tool is easier to use and last longer, and not going in to hardness, Rockwell Scale, ect.
Just giving info, in the kitchen knifes, I used to make some of my hunting knives, 63 RCK, the harder, sharper with work, but more brittle if twisted in a bone, ect, and broken.
I dont know what your point/argument is?
I was talking knifes in the kitchen, not the field. Most Kitchen knifes are about 54-59 Rockwell, makes sharping easier.
God, it is close to Easter, BBB might get resorective!!!!! :eek: Spell check sucks. :cool:
It is not a point or argument other than why does it make any difference weather the knife is ground to a particular angle for any cut of meat or vegetable? If you see a difference you are a better man than me. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
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thunderbirdbat
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by thunderbirdbat »

European style knives have about a 20-22* angle and Asian style have about a 14-16* angle. Most preset angle sharpeners unless specifically stated for Asian style knives are set to 20-22*. I replaced my husband's chef knife a couple of years ago with one from Shun in Japan and had to find a sharpener that would not mess up the angle for him.
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rjent
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by rjent »

masonsailor2 wrote:I think the problem of dissimilar woods is less of an issue in a dry environment. A knife holder will certainly see some moisture and then it becomes a problem. Rather than use pine as the substrate think about other hardwoods which are less expensive than the maple but in the same hardness/stability zone as the maple. A good choice is European steamed Beech which is fairly inexpensive ( around 3-3.50/bd ft) and is about the same hardness as maple. I use it for drawers and sub structure because it is so dense and stable. It is also a beautiful wood in its own right.
Paul
Thank you Paul. My research has shown kind of the same thing. I thought I would just see what the forum had to say. I think I will use the pine. That is really all we have here except for exotic wood stores at the exotic pricing and 150 miles away, so if pine works, it gives me some options. So if it works, great, if it doesn't we all learn, especially me .... :D
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TomHoffman
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by TomHoffman »

Dick

Here is a source for Native hard wood. He normally has chunks for bowl turning blanks and spindle turning as well as fancy gun stock blanks. Give him as call and tell him what you are making and he will put together a box of enough wood of the species you want to get it done. I find him reasonable especially when you want some nice wood.

His name is Randy Johnson of Johnson Wood Products. Here is his site

http://johnsonwoodproducts.com
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Ed in Tampa
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Re: Veneer Solid Wood

Post by Ed in Tampa »

Wife wanted knife rack for her precious knifes (those used daily) but she didn't want to give up counter space. I was in a kitchen supply store and saw a neat rack the would fit in a drawer. I drew a paper copy and made one. You can make it as wide as you want since every section is cut on the bandsaw and held to the adjacent one next to it with a dowel. Each section holds 3 1/2 knifes two little and one big. I widened the joint between each section to store an extra knife in each. This was more or less proof of concept when my wife latched onto it and it was pressesd into service and we have used it for the 6 years.

If I were do another I would not put a saw kerf down on the bottom level the long knifes don't use I and I think it would look nicer with out it.
I left them un finished they were made from maple. I touched them with wet hand to take these pictures.
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Excuse the mess in the knife drawer, there is a mix of steak knifes, and floral knifes also in the drawer. Any loose sharp knives have sheafs.
Last edited by Ed in Tampa on Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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