gurrenteed wrote:I searched the forum but I'm not finding an answer to this question:
Can I use a link belt with the speed changer? I have to order some random parts from Skip at MKC so I figured I should ask just in case I need to add a speed changer belt set to the cart. I already have a link belt but I can't find where anyone is using them with a speed changer.
Also, where do you buy machine oil? I realize that this is a stupid question, but I am completely lost on this. I see that oils have ISO and SAE grades. I'm assuming I need ISO 10? I found what I believe is the right stuff but the smallest quantity is a quart, which seems excessive and kind of expensive. When I google "#10 machine oil", the only thing I am finding locally is this 3-in-1 oil and sewing machine oils.
If it were mine, I would just buy a set of belts from Skip. They fit perfectly and you eliminate any problems. The 10ER is just a different/better machine with the speed controller. You are going to love it!
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
gurrenteed wrote:I searched the forum but I'm not finding an answer to this question:
Can I use a link belt with the speed changer? I have to order some random parts from Skip at MKC so I figured I should ask just in case I need to add a speed changer belt set to the cart. I already have a link belt but I can't find where anyone is using them with a speed changer.
Also, where do you buy machine oil? I realize that this is a stupid question, but I am completely lost on this. I see that oils have ISO and SAE grades. I'm assuming I need ISO 10? I found what I believe is the right stuff but the smallest quantity is a quart, which seems excessive and kind of expensive. When I google "#10 machine oil", the only thing I am finding locally is this 3-in-1 oil and sewing machine oils.
I have two 10ERs, my main machine has a speed changer but I have only used it with regular belts. The other one is set up as a dedicated drill press. I am using a link belt on that one but it doesn't have a speed changer.
I think you would be better off using the belts from Skip. The link belt has a deeper profile (ID v OD) than a conventional belt, on my drill press this can sometimes cause it to slightly rub on the way tubes, and I suspect the tabs on the ID would prevent you from getting the full range of speed.
Machine oil, 3 in 1 electric motor oil, sewing machine oil, it is all the same stuff.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Other then a speed changer to make the machine really hum get the belts from Skip along with his balanced pulleys for a 10. I have them on 2 of my 3 10s and a noticeable difference with his balanced pulleys.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
gurrenteed wrote:Thanks! I added a speed changer set to the MKC order. Also just picked up some 3-in-1 to try out. Thanks for the help.
I guess I'll keep the link belt around until I get brave and upgrade the motor.
Let us know how you like the 'fragrance'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
So I have a few broken or less than perfect parts on my 10er. I've been searching for parts and I found a cheap 10er locally that's in better shape than mine when I got it. It has a speed changer and all the basic pieces plus quite a few extra parts I wouldn't mind having.
I set up a deal with the guy to take any or all parts I want for $75. I would easily spend this on eBay trying to buy the parts I need. I imagine he will just scrap what I don't take, which brings me to my question: Should I take things like the headstock, headrest, way tubes, and base plate and sell them? Is there a need for these things? I'm not looking to make any money, just don't want to let something go to the scrap yard that someone might need for their 10er. I guess I'm thinking that those parts are so heavy that shipping would be a fortune. Would it be helpful to sell these kind of parts for the cost of shipping or is it still not worth it?
Anyway, my 10er is coming together. I'm chipping away little by little but I'm getting closer. I'll try to attach a picture of it. Thanks again for all your help! You guys are awesome!
Looking very good. Yes it would be worth it for the parts. SC go for 150-175# on EBay alone.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
gurrenteed wrote:I planned on grabbing the SC, table/fence, jacobs chuck, table extension, miter, sanding disc, tool rest, motor and anything else that catches my eye.
The bigger and heavier stuff is what I'm not sure about.
I would take it all. No 10ER stuff should go to the junk yard IMO. If you are willing to let the extra parts go for shipping there should be lots of people jumping on that. For instance, I bought two 4E jointers (basically the same as the MK V jointer). That is probably the heaviest piece in the 10ER family. The head stock and pivot base are probably close. The shipping was only about $35. So a head stock for $35 is a good price. If it has thick wall way tubes don't let them go.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
gurrenteed wrote:I planned on grabbing the SC, table/fence, jacobs chuck, table extension, miter, sanding disc, tool rest, motor and anything else that catches my eye.
The bigger and heavier stuff is what I'm not sure about.
I would take it all. No 10ER stuff should go to the junk yard IMO. If you are willing to let the extra parts go for shipping there should be lots of people jumping on that. For instance, I bought two 4E jointers (basically the same as the MK V jointer). That is probably the heaviest piece in the 10ER family. The head stock and pivot base are probably close. The shipping was only about $35. So a head stock for $35 is a good price. If it has thick wall way tubes don't let them go.
