Shopsmith Forums

jsburger wrote:

JPG wrote:Which is why it may be causing his 'issue'.

Which is why a jointer is an essential tool in the shop. Straighten the edge on the jointer and then rip. There is a specific sequence of operations to mill crooked stock to obtain a usable straight and flat piece. Failure to follow that sequence results in less than desirable results.

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agree 100%
Only some don't know how to properly use one.

There is more to it then just running a board across the blades .

I have a friend who had issues with his jointer , seems one end of his board was narrower /or thinner then the other when he was done getting a straight edge and he couldn't figure out why .

I wonder! Maybe initial setup had something to do with it. I've heard that that can be very important.

dusty wrote:I wonder! Maybe initial setup had something to do with it. I've heard that that can be very important.

I am guessing that pressure transfer to the outfeed end also has something to 'do with it'.

Indeed if the outfeed table is not equal 'height' to the blades straightness is elusive.

Hobbyman2 wrote:.

Wen you see burn marks on a cut line especially when cutting wood like cherry , ,,,some thing is terribly wrong .
.

I would tend to agree with until you mentioned Cherry. I find it nearly impossible to cut Cherry without a burn mark. It can be minimized but it takes more than a perfect setup. It requires the right cutting speed and blade sharpness. Cherry burns if you look at it funny.

Now burn marks on oak, walnut, ash definitely spell a bad setup somewhere.

Cherry does burn easy , if your equipment is right it wont burn , working with a lot of cherry now on the bed build ,one of my favorite woods to work with ,,, burn marks are bad real bad , means the face of the blade is in contact with the wood or you stopped in the middle of a cut,either way not good.

We are 'off topic' again!

Thanks guys for all your input. I attempted the fence set up again today and also double checked the Table squareness. The table was not square. Out on the outfeed side by at least 7 thousandths . I tried to align the table using the alignment with dial setup from shopsmith and I will get to about 1 thousandths but when I go to tighten the table it will move it out of parallel. Tried at least 6 times and still no luck so I left it at about where it was originally. Then I went for the fence and glad to report that I got the fence parallel to the miter slot to about 2-3 thousandths on the out feed side.'
Any good idea on how to solve the table issue.
Note: I followed the Shopsmith Academy video tutorial for the table alignment.

babalaisi wrote:Thanks guys for all your input. I attempted the fence set up again today and also double checked the Table squareness. The table was not square. Out on the outfeed side by at least 7 thousandths . I tried to align the table using the alignment with dial setup from shopsmith and I will get to about 1 thousandths but when I go to tighten the table it will move it out of parallel. Tried at least 6 times and still no luck so I left it at about where it was originally. Then I went for the fence and glad to report that I got the fence parallel to the miter slot to about 2-3 thousandths on the out feed side.'
Any good idea on how to solve the table issue.
Note: I followed the Shopsmith Academy video tutorial for the table alignment.

You Need to adjust the table with ALL the locks tight Then tightening the bolts becomes the next 'issue'!

Patience is key. I think it took me about 3 days to get mine aligned. I worked until I got frustrated then took a break. Snug all the bolts slowly checking alignment after each round of tightening is what helped me.

Step 1: Set fence square and observe which way the fence moves when you snug the bolts -- both direction and how much. Step 2: Now try again and instead of setting the fence square before snugging, set the fence so it is out of square in the opposite direction and amount from what you observed in Step 1. Snugging the bolts should bring the fence square.