Motor Wiring

[JPG]

Hopefully this will help.

motor wiring.jpg (37.42 KiB) Viewed 5477 times

[dzawacki]

First I must apologize for being incomplete with my instructions. I purposefully did not include the terminal block terminals since I felt that it would simplify things. However since then I went back and took a closer look at the hook up info on the motor tag. As I originally sketched it without any wires on the terminal, it simply would not have run. Since you experienced tripping the breaker, I suspect you did connect something to the terminals.

What I initially overlooked was that the run windings are internally connected to terminal 1 and 4(on end of each run winding). There are two run windings and they are connected in parallel across terminals 1 and 4 for lower voltage(120) and in series using terminal 3 for high voltage(240).

I am about to leave, but will later make a new sketch that will include the terminals in the motor as well as the motor internal wiring(as best I can surmise).

It might be helpful to ascertain that the motor does indeed run when connected as described on the tag before adding the drum switch.

JPG, you've been more than helpful. I really am not comfortable tackling this without some in person guidance. When I am able to get my dad over to show me what I'm missing, you can bet we're going to reference the information you've provided. Thanks for all the help!

[dzawacki]

So I have had some trouble cutting wood with the 1/2hp motor. However, I haven't tried adjusting the speed to a higher rpm for sawing. I have a speed changer, but I've been avoiding setting it up because I think I have a problem with it every time I put it on. More on that later.

I think I made a bunch of rookie mistakes with the motor wiring because I wasn't comfortable with it. JPG, your diagram seemed very straightforward, but your follow-up questions made me think I misread something. For the time being, I'm going to stick with the 1/2hp motor and if I can get my dad over to show me what I'm doing wrong, I'll try the upgrade to the 3/4hp then.

Back to the speed changer, I keep searching for a visual set up guide to get a high speed range out of it, but I'm coming up short.
Also, there is the thumb screw holding the sheeve on to the shaft. Everytime I turn on the ShopSmith, this thumbscrew tightens against the sheeve and heats up. I don't feel like this is how it should work. Today I took the whole thing apart and cleaned and lubed everything and it still had the same problem when I put it back on the machine. Any thoughts? Is this normal?

No that is not how it should work. The cause is the sintered bronze bushings. When the sheave assembly is installed on the speed changer shaft the bronze bushing on the end where the nut goes should not extend past the shoulder on the shaft where the nut screws on. The nut should bottom out on the flange of the shaft and not the flange of the bushing. Either one of your bushings is not fully seated or the bushing flanges are slightly too thick causing enough friction between the nut and the bushing flange to cause heat up.

If one of the bushings is not fully seated just use a small hammer and block of wood and GENTLY (sintered bronze is brittle) tap on it to reseat it. If they are fully seated then put a piece of fine sand paper on a flat surface and lightly sand the face of one or both flanges. I should not take much. I had one that tightened up tight enough to keep the sheave assembly from turning.

This is what I needed to know. I'll take a look at what's going on tonight and see if I can get things reseated.

Does anyone have a photo of what it should look like for reference?

[jsburger]

The bushing flanges should be up tight against the shaft ends. If they are and you still experience binding then use the sand paper to remove enough of the bushing flange to eliminate the binding. The sheave shaft should float on the speed changer shaft with no binding caused by the thumb nut.

[dzawacki]

The bushing flanges should be up tight against the shaft ends. If they are and you still experience binding then use the sand paper to remove enough of the bushing flange to eliminate the binding. The sheave shaft should float on the speed changer shaft with no binding caused by the thumb nut.

Okay, I was able to get it adjusted to what I think it needs to be now. A fully tightened nut didn't seem to prevent it from rotating.

Now my issue is reversing the pulley on the motor so I can set the belts correctly. It seems the PO installed them backward for some reason.

[dzawacki]

So I am a little unclear at the moment on what difference an increase in horsepower will make. Can anyone weigh in on the benefits of a more powerful motor? I'm wondering if I'm thinking about this all wrong.

For example, I know there would be more power if I jumped from 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower but what would happen if I hypothetically jumped up to 2 or 3 horsepower? What does that added power do?

[JPG]

Since the mod 10 is an 8" saw, I doubt going beyond 3/4 hp will gain much. It is the saw function that requires muscle. Since you do have the 3/4 hp motor, I think changing to that is desirable.