Shopsmith Forums

I seriously doubt that you are working against ONLY RUST. Since the set screws are not aligned, either one or both have become improperly aligned with the flats where the set screws should engage the shaft(s). Rocking back and forth, as Bill just suggested, will hopefully yield some movement but only if you can adequately secure the other end of the quill shaft without damaging the splines.

Don't try to secure that end by connecting to the shaft at the other end. Recall, there is a plastic/nylon coupler in there that may not withstand the torque.

benmcn wrote: After soaking it for a day I used a technique described by everettdavis. I took the base of my HF puller, attached it at the separation point for the drive center and the drive sleeve and then slowly tightened all of the bolts. It acted like a spreader and the drive center finally broke free.

Back a few pages when Ben suggested using the base from the HF puller. I believe he was referring to the bearing splitter part. (left side of picture)
Seat the sharp edge between the arbor and the spindle knob, or between the spindle knob and the quill. Then tighten the nuts to wedge the arbor loose. Also once it is seated you can attach the puller and push against the splined end of the quill.

dusty wrote:I seriously doubt that you are working against ONLY RUST. Since the set screws are not aligned, either one or both have become improperly aligned with the flats where the set screws should engage the shaft(s). Rocking back and forth, as Bill just suggested, will hopefully yield some movement but only if you can adequately secure the other end of the quill shaft without damaging the splines.

Don't try to secure that end by connecting to the shaft at the other end. Recall, there is a plastic/nylon coupler in there that may not withstand the torque.

The OP gave the reason for the set screw misalignment at the beginning of the thread.

He said, "The two set screws are not aligned because the serrated piece is spinning freely after loosening the screw."

BuckeyeDennis wrote:I'm having a hard time figuring out how you had the bearing extractor set up. You need to pull on that arbor, not push on it.

But then I realized that the arbor could serve nicely as its own jack screw. Can you still get a nut on those damaged arbor threads? If not, you could probably clean them up with a thread file.

You can cut a sleeve out of metal pipe to slip over the arbor, all the way down to the knurled collar. You'll need most of the arbor threads exposed when the sleeve is in position. Then slip a big heavy washer over the threaded end of the arbor, and thread on a hex nut. When you tighten the hex nut, all of the screw thrust will go through the washer, then the sleeve, then the knurled collar, then the inner race of the spindle bearing, and finally up against a solid shoulder on the spindle. You'll just have to restrain the splined end of the spindle so that the whole spindle doesn't rotate.

Unless whatever is binding the arbor to the spindle is stronger than the arbor threads, that setup should be able to break it free.

Edit: If you're lucky, you can find a pipe nipple that's already the right size to use for a jacking sleeve.

Good plan! Do NOT oil the threads, but rather grease them.

John,
There is a "Greenie" Quill that was posted yesterday for sale on ebay for $10, buy it now price. It is located in Redmond OR. The seller says it needs a new bearing too but could be an answer to your problem if the arbor doesn't come off without damaging the Spindle or elsewhere on the Quill Assembly.

Unfortunately it is hard to check to see if the spindle is true or bent without it being in a running headstock. I have had a Model 10 and a Mark 5 with bent spindles that had to be replaced on machines I have restored. It's not common but it does happen.

Hi guys,

I wanted to give you an update on my situation. I have a friend that I know through my local AACA chapter, who is the shop foreman at my local Ford dealership. So I showed it to him and he said, "Sure, I can get that off. Bring it by tomorrow and we'll use our 25 Ton press." ;-)

So I took it over and even with about 10 TONS of force on it, it didn't budge, so we torched it and tried again. No dice. Finally, after breaking for some lunch and trying again we were about to give up, but as we took it off the press, we noticed that it had moved. But instead of moving off the shaft, it was rotating and the end of the shaft was rotating with it, but the other end of the shaft was NOT turning.

OK, well, we thought that we'd broken the shaft. But no! This is where ignorance and lack of familiarity cast a glaring light on my efforts. It turns out that the adapter INCLUDES an extension of the shaft that has the threads on it. I thought that the adapter was separate from the visual part of the shaft. So all that pressure we were using was really only compressing a single piece of metal instead of pushing it off of the shaft itself. No wonder all that pressure wasn't having an effect! It was, of course, at this point that I planted the palm of my hand into my forehead. All I needed to do was PUSH the adapter off instead of trying to pull it off and it probably would have come off much more easily. <sigh/> Anyway, it's off. Thank you to all of you for your help! Now, on to the next part of the challenge. Hopefully, by the time this is all over I'll have a clue. ;-)
John

Off hand I would admit that 'we' fell short in not explaining to you what needed to be separated from what and a description of what a what looked like. 'We' all knew what the adapter was but apparently thee had a different perception.

I hope all that misdirected force and heat did not damage the actual quill shaft.


Glad another trial/tribulation/learning experience is complete.