I'm close to finally collecting all five bearings to be replaced (The control sheave bearing seems just fine to me. Go figure) and I've done my best Everett impression to get them measured precisely. Here are the two motor bearings and the two Gilmer Drive bearings:
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But the quill bearing is still eluding me. On the end of my quill is a rusty part that I don't recognize and I don't see in either of the headstock teardown videos I've been using (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceXY8nj93Us and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvX-j62vt44). It's not in Jacob Anderson's quill evaluation video either. It has a standard alan screw, like the silver serrated piece behind it, but unlike the serrated piece that spins freely, this piece is so stuck on that it nearly broke my shiny new Harbor Freight bearing puller set. Here's a picture:
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Any clue what that part is and what I need to do to get it off so I can get the bearing out of the quill?
The part may be a Shopsmith universal arbor the goes on the quill to mount things like a buffing wheel. The quill will only extend about 1.25 inches from the knurled nut. Try to put some penetrating oil in the set screw hole and force the oil in using the set screw. Very judicious use of heat may work but that would be a last resort. If you can secure the splined end of the quill without damaging it try to rotate the part to try to break it loose. It may take a few days to get enough oil into the part to work it loose
Bill V
You have what appears to be a 1/2" shaper arbor attached to the quill. i.e. that is not the quill shaft with the key slot and threaded end.
Remove the set screw that secures it and pump penetrating fluid in thar. Let it soak fer a spell.
May require some 'shock' treatment.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Just noticed the set screw is off set from the collar set screw. One(or both) are NOT on it's respective flat. That may complicate things as the shaft may be scored from the set screws.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The two set screws are not aligned because the serrated piece is spinning freely after loosening the screw. So hopefully the quill isn't scored, but obviously I won't know for sure until the darned thing is off.
I guess I'm going to try the penetrating fluid first and see what that gets me, but wow is that thing on there tight.
The PO attached a lathe drive center to the Drive Sleeve Assembly of this rust bucket. Just about every set screw and part has required a lot of effort to disassemble. It has been kind of sad to see just how much abuse and neglect this machine has taken. In any case, I could not get the drive center to budge. I finally resorted to soaking the drive assemble in Evaporust over night. That allowed me to get the set screw out. I then soaked the Drive center with PB blaster and covered it with a plastic bag (I already knew the bearings were going to be replaced). After soaking it for a day I used a technique described by everettdavis. I took the base of my HF puller, attached it at the separation point for the drive center and the drive sleeve and then slowly tightened all of the bolts. It acted like a spreader and the drive center finally broke free.
Yea, I tried using the bearing puller that he recommended, but it started to bend the bolt between the two halves that fit behind the bearing, so I stopped. Drowning it in Evaporust is a really good idea. I've been regularly coating it with PB Blaster throughout the day today and if that doesn't allow me to break it loose tonight, I think I'll try the Evaporust and see what that does. Thanks!
Here's another view of the stinkin' thing in case that helps to confirm what that part actually is:
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As long as the knurled collar spins freely you may want to try to position the headstock in a position so that the quill assembly is in a vertical position with the threaded end down. Then remove the set screw from the knurled knob and put the PB blaster into the hole. Because the knurled nut spins there may be enough clearance for the blaster to seep down to the arbor by gravity. Try not to damage the knurled nut, they are not easy to find. Have you removed the lathe drive center from the left side of the quill yet?. It may be rusted also.
Bill V
Yea, everything is removed from the headstock -- the quill and the lathe drive. Good note about the knurled collar. I didn't know that they were that rare, so I'll definitely heed that advice! Good idea to try using gravity too. I've been putting PB Blaster between the collar and the frozen piece, but not positioning it up on end as you suggest. So that's another good thing to try.
And of course, you are both right about the "patience" part, which is something I'm not very good at. I want to get that bearing out so I can get the parts ordered and proceed with the project. But there is plenty of other work to do while that issue is being worked. This unit may not be in as bad shape as the one @benmcn posted earlier, but it's still very rough.
