Shopsmith Forums

JPG wrote: Thu Sep 08, 2022 6:27 pm Question is what is causing capacitor discharge to create a current that will produce sound from the speaker? A decaying current should not create an audible frequency(or any frequency) to be induced in the speaker.

Now explain to me what a piezo speaker is?

Well I was about to pop off and say something really stupid when I realized what you saw wrong from the start. Yes indeed, you need a speaker module that will produce a tone varying with the voltage or else add your own circuit. My apologies, I don't know where my mind gets to sometimes.

I had concluded you were referring to a piezo buzzer. Merely seeking clarification.

Great news, the motor works! Replaced the starting capacitor and it fired right up! After rewiring the switch, that is, must have pulled something loose when monkeying around in there.

Going to finish cleaning and lubing the headstock parts and look at fixing/replacing the motor control piece that attaches to the face plate and then I should be in business!

Sconnie wrote: Mon Sep 12, 2022 10:23 pm Great news, the motor works! Replaced the starting capacitor and it fired right up! After rewiring the switch, that is, must have pulled something loose when monkeying around in there.

Going to finish cleaning and lubing the headstock parts and look at fixing/replacing the motor control piece that attaches to the face plate and then I should be in business!

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JPG wrote: Mon Sep 12, 2022 11:15 pm

Sconnie wrote: Mon Sep 12, 2022 10:23 pm Going to finish cleaning and lubing the headstock parts and look at fixing/replacing the motor control piece that attaches to the face plate and then I should be in business!

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Still learning the part names. The shaft that the speed control plate/knob attaches to is rusty and worn down and the plate doesn’t want to stay in place. Trying to figure out how to build that up or replace it. I’d rather not use JB Weld.

That is the Speed Control Assembly (P/N 504198). It has seen better days. I would suggest removing it from the Headstock housing to access the condition of the other side. Remove the three screws and release the Quadrant Assembly aka "pork-chop" from the wire loop on the end of the Idler Shaft movable Pulley Sheave from the inside of the Headstock. If the condition of the back side of the Speed Control Assembly looks rusted or there is damage to the worm gear and/or the "pork-chop" teeth, consider replacing the assembly. It is item G at the link below. For reference the Quadrant Assembly aka "pork-chop" is item H.

https://www.shopsmith.com/service/mostf ... dparts.htm

How do the gear teeth look on the back of the Speed Control Handle (P/N 504229) which is the part you already removed from the Speed Control Assembly. Those teeth turn the rusted gear which turns the outer Speed Control Dial.

When you say

the plate doesn’t want to stay in place.

Do you mean the Speed Control Handle attaching to the Worm Gear Shaft? The Worm Gear itself can be replaced separately if needed. It still may be better to replace the entire Speed Control Assembly rather than individual parts depending on how much is damaged/rusted.